What is Meal?

Meal. It doesn't sound like a very appetizing or healthy dog food ingredient. On the contrary, some forms of Meal found in dog food formulas can be an excellent addition to your dogs diet. Let's get to the bottom of what Meal really is and understand the positive and negative aspects of its inclusion in the majority of foods on the market today. As always, we boil it down to blue collar science here at northUpland and into terms we can all clearly understand, aka: High Quality Meal vs. Low Quality Meal.

High Quality Meal
Whole Meat Protein Meal: Any whole meat(identifiable meat source named on the ingredient list) as a whole meat meal is an excellent source of protein such Chicken Meal, Salmon Meal, Lamb Meal etc, etc. In fact, whole meat Meals are a more "potent" protein source then their own counterparts whole meat flesh form. The production of whole meat Meal starts with dehydration of clean, deboned flesh. It is then dehydrated to eliminate the moisture. Finally it is ground down into a fine meal. This all takes place prior to the ingredients being mixed and cooked into kibble. I think we can all agree Chicken is a great source of protein, but as a Meal it becomes a highly concentrated protein form. Why? Chicken, as well as all other whole, premium cut meats, are full of moisture. When dog food ingredients are cooked moisture within the Chicken meat is eliminated and the "weight" of chicken as a primary ingredient is shrunk considerably. Important note; ingredients listed and advertised on dog food bags are in PRE COOKED percentages. Chicken Meal on the other hand, has already been dehydrated and then ground down before the cooking process thus eliminating the moisture content and giving it a higher percentage of ingredients.  In other words, if Chicken Meal is listed as the first ingredient compared to just Chicken listed first, there is considerably more protein content in the Meal first formula because of the Chicken Meals' dehydrated precook state. Furthermore, Chicken Meal is more readily digestible than just Chicken. As a dog's digestive system processes Chicken Meal, it's inherit "ground" physical quality helps it breakdown in the stomach and intestines faster, thus becoming readily absorbed into the dog's system much quicker than whole chicken meat. Again, we only used Chicken as an example here but the same can be said for all other whole protein meats and meal such as Lamb, Salmon, Duck, Venison, etc.

Low "Ash" Whole Meat Protein Meals: These are considered "superior" meat protein sources. For example, Low Ash Chicken Meal consists of chicken meat and some accompanying bone, and “ash” denotes the amount of bone that's ground into the meal. The lower the ash content equates to a higher grade meal and a more pure protein source. The chicken is ground into a powder (meal) after the fat and water are removed, and the end result is a very concentrated, highly digestible protein, rich with amino acids, essential fatty acids and minerals (ash) that provide calcium and phosphorous.

High Quality "Meals" Make Great Canine Athletes.
Dewey: Five In The Bag and Still Looking For More.


Low Quality Meal
These are meals listed below are commonly used in lower grade dog food that come from "uncertain origins" and in our opinion should be avoided.  

Meat Meal: The generic term "Meat" (with no identifiable named source precluding) is highly suspicious as to actually what the meat really is! It's kinda of like fast food chains mystery meat! There are substantiated claims that Meat Meal contains more disgusting things than we would like to imagine so we will avoid writing them here.

By-Product Meal: Defined as a `meat(name source) by-product is: "The non-rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. Again, "anonymous"(unnamed) meat source precluding a by-product meal makes this ingredient even more ambiguous as to its origins.  


Vegetable and Grain Meal: Grain and vegetable meals are generally used in dog food to keep the cost of production low. Manufacturers use products like corn gluten meal or soybean meal as an alternative to a more costly and higher quality ingredient. Soybeans, linseed, and corn may appear as meals in pet food.  Corn Gluten Meal in particular is commonly used and is a concentrated form of protein that is very difficult to digest. Using this type of ingredient allows the food to advertise high protein content even though your dog might not actually digest or benefit from any of it.


Bone Meal: The rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents, except in such amounts as may occur unavoidably in good processing practices. Bone Meal offers a very limited source of nutrients and is not well "defined" ingredient. Like mystery Meat Meal It goes into the suspect list!

I hope this helps shed some light on the vast differences of what Meal real is in its various forms and compositions. I realize it is a confusing retail world out there full of colorful dog food bags and the mass marketing hype that surrounds this entire industry. If you ever have any questions or concerns please do not hesitate to give me a shout. Email me at northupland@yahhoo.com or post a comment below. You have my word that I will give you my unbiased opinion. Please remember, we here at northUpland are trying to make our good gun dogs even better through proper nutrition and planned fitness. Thank you for reading my blog.

Best of Luck Out There. -Mark

Canine Hypothermia

Temperatures are continuing to plummet across the upper Midwest. Old Man Winter is once again rearing his ugly head as snow storms continue to batter us from what seems like every direction. Here in southern Wisconsin there are still 15 days before the bird hunting season closes for yet another fateful year. As hunters, we expose our dogs to the bitterest of natural elements as fall turns to winter. During this time of year overeager owners can expectantly place gun dogs in harms way.  Canine hypothermia must remain a constant concern to ensure your faithful four legged hunting partner runs astray from it's deathly grip. 

Hypothermia is the lowering of the dog's core temperature and occurs when a dog's temperature falls abnormally low. The extent of the injuries varies with the body temperature and duration of hypothermia. Hypothermia can be fatal. Mild hypothermia causes an increase in blood pressure and heart rate, but if the time and severity of heat loss continues, heart rate and blood pressure decline and cardiac arrhythmia's or cardiac arrest can occur. Severe hypothermia leads to respiratory problems, lethargy, lack of coordination, paralysis, and possibly even death.

The first acute symptom of hypothermia is shivering(OK, that's pretty obvious that he or she is cold!)When a dog shivers, there is an increase in muscle activity, which increases heat production. At the same time, his blood circulation shifts away from his legs and feet to his internal organs. Other symptoms include slow and shallow breathing, weakness, and listlessness. If your dog is excessively "shaking his coat off" this is also an early sign of hypothermia. If your dog's normal rhythm of hunting starts to involves these abnormal stoppages "to shake it off" this is the earliest telltale sign that the cold is starting to get to them!  It is time to start moving back to the truck quickly.



Frigid Days Make Your Canine Athlete Work Even Harder

 It is also important to realize during the cold months a dogs metabolism increases. As I posted last year in "Cold Dog, New Tricks" The general rule of thumb is for every 10 degree drop in average outside temperature increase your dog's food rations up 6%. Keeping your dog well feed with a high protein/high fat diet during the winter hunting season can provide additional support for warding off adverse effects of the cold. Bitter cold also brings dryness to the atmosphere where a dogs breathe gets zapped and moisture is evaporated by zero humidity conditions quickly. With every breathe brings a loss of water to your dog. Much more than even that hot humid day chasing quail for you southern hunters. Getting a hard charging gun dog to drink in the stone cold winter is usually tough to do. Even though he is not begging for it, it certainly doesn't mean he doesn't need it! To get a dog that won't drink to come to water, grab him gently by the muzzle and spray just a few squirt of water down his throat. I don't mean cold water either but nice warm water from a bottle that has been kept tucked in your vest nearest your own heat source. This is when the training in the off season to accept a water bottle comes in handy! Keep in mind, a working dog will need at minimum 1-2 ounces of water every 20 minutes to stay properly hydrated. Keeping your dog hydrated is not the only thing that should concern you. It is also very helpful to carry some treats in your vest pocket as well. A dog eating a small ration of treats(make then small, soft, and easily eaten) during a cold hunt will help their body produce internal heat from digestion. Keeping them watered and munching on a treat every 20 minutes or so will help ward of the dreaded early signs of hypothermia. If you let your dog succumb to hypothermia you have nobody to blame but yourself.  There is NO bird in this world worth injuring your dog over! If you do notice these early signs get your dog into a heated vehicle as quickly as possible and back to a warm house as soon as possible. If the dog is showing signs of advanced hypothermia(lethargy, stumbling, excessive/uncontrollable shaking) go to the nearest emergency vet!

I hope these tips help this winter season. Canine hypothermia is not to be taken lightly. Imagine if you are getting chilly following your dog in pursuit of frosty pheasants or grouse...you can assume your four legged hunting buddy is feeling the effects of the cold as well.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

True Performance

As gun dog owners I believe we all strive for the same collective results. A dog that works hard and covers a lot of ground. A dog that is well trained and highly motivated. A dog that is fit and physical. A dog that truly loves to hunt for us and share the thrill. At the end of the day when the last feather floats to the ground, our gun dogs are truly our most faithful and trusted companions. But what are we doing to return their hard work, devotion and commitment? Better yet, what are we doing to make our good dogs great?

Like all living organisms, it starts and ends with nutrition. Food is the fuel that steams our dogs engine and stokes the fire within. Without quality food your dog will never reach his or her full potential in the marsh, woods, or field. These days more and more manufacturers are focusing on producing high quality dog foods. Unfortunately, there are still those owners who believe dog food found at a grocery store is just as good. This simple is not the case. Canines specifically produced and trained to hunt are animal athletes. With any athlete, the quality of their diet dictates their overall performance on the field of play. Over the past year many of my blog posts have hopefully shed some light of the positive and negatives effect of both proper and improper nutrition. Fall is upon us and most hunting seasons across this country are only days away from opening. Unfortunately, for a dog to fully adjust to a food change it can take 4-6 weeks to see any results in the field. But it is never to late to switch from an inexpensive "grocery store" brand to a premium food. If this is your first visit to my blog I urge you to read past posts titled,  Pocket Guide For Dog Food Consumers, The Holistic Gun Dog, and Performance Dog Foods for a more in depth look.

But you may ask, what makes a dog food low or high quality? Great question but one you can answer for yourself very quickly by following these helpful red and green flags. Here is my blue collar round up on things to watch for...

Red flags for low quality dog foods contain:

• ANY Grain source as #1 ingredient
• High amounts corn, soy, and/or wheat grain sources in ingredients overall/any combination
• Grain Gluten in ANY form(low grade protein source)
• Unspecified mystery "Meat" ingredients such as Meat Meal, Meat By-product, etc
• Synthetic preservetives such as, BHT(Butylated Hydroxyanisole), BHA(Butylated Hydroxytoluene), Propylene Glycol, Ethoxyquin
• Food coloring agents aka; color #whatever 

Green flags for high quality dog foods contain:

• Whole meat or whole meat meal proteins such as chicken, duck, beef, bison, fish, lamb, etc as the first ingredient
• Low overall grain ingredient content and gluten free
• At least 2 meat type proteins in top 5 ingredients(including meat protein meals which are a very high source of quality protein)
• Natural preserved with mixed tocopherols(vitamin E)
• Powerful antioxidents such as blueberries, cranberries, etc
• Contain Prebiotics and/or Probiotics aka; Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecium



Nothing better than seeing a well fueled, hard charging dog having fun hunting birds!

  The above mentioned red or green flags are a great way to quickly establish whether or not a dog food is grocery or premium. But be advised, some manufactures who are considered "premium" producers slip red flags into there formula's to cut costs. Do NOT be fooled. Do your due diligence and read the label in it's entirety. Do not be fooled by the disclaimer on every bag of food in this country: Approved by AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for all life stages. The AAFCO has in most nutritionists opinion regulate and allow a very low level(base minimum) of acceptance on what they consider a food "formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the the minimum nutrients in dog food". In other words, all dog food for sale in America must reach these low standards before they can even be allowed to bring the product to market. Yep, even Ol' Roy met AAFCO approval so that is not saying much!

I hope this brief round up helps you make a more educated decision when shopping for your gun dogs next bag of food. There are some really wonderful manufacturers out there doing the right thing for our dogs. I don't guarantee many things but I will guarantee this; switching your dog to a high quality diet will vastly improve their performance in the field and in the home. Don't be scared away from the higher prices. If the health and wellbeing of your fourlegged hunting partner is important to you, price should not be the first concern.

Best of luck out there. -Mark



Pocket Guide for Dog Food Consumers

These days more and more gun dog owners are asking questions about proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and other dog food nutrients. It is reassuring to know people want straight answers and are serious about supplying their hunting partners with the best nutrition possible. It is a confusing retail world out there with hundreds of dog foods to choose from. It is also long overdue that I put together a sort of "cliff's notes" or pocket guide to better help the dog food consumer. I invite you to comment on this post at the end or email with your direct questions to northupland@yahoo.com I thank you all for taking the time to care about your dog's nutrition!

Proteins are the basic building blocks of life. Protein intake ensures cells, tissues, organs, enzymes, hormones and antibodies are digested for growth, maintenance, reproduction, repair and energy. Meat proteins such as chicken, lamb, turkey, beef, bison, venison, duck, and fish have complete amino acid profiles. That simple means they contain all of the amino acids your dog needs. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, and are divided into essential and non-essential amino acids. Essential amino acids are ones that cannot be manufactured by the body in sufficient quantities and must be supplied in the working dogs diet. Examples of essential amino acids are carnitine, arginine and lysine. Non-essential amino acids are ones that your dog can produce naturally in sufficient quantities. Protein levels for working gun dogs should be right around 30% give or take the amount of activity. That percentage can be found right on the bag in the guaranteed analysis. But buyer beware! An advertised  30% protein rating can be misleading. Some manufacturers use vegetable based protein gluten, a.k.a. "corn gluten" to boost the protein rating.  Because of vegetable gluten's composition it leads to an inherent lack of digestibility. Most of the "advertised" protein content will be eaten and excreted by your dog with very little nutritional protein absorption ever taking place.  

Fats are the most concentrated form of food energy for dogs. Fats provide your gun dog with more than twice the energy of proteins or carbohydrates! Fats are essential in the structure of cells and are needed for the production of some hormones. They are also required for absorption and utilization of fat-soluble vitamins like vitamins A, D, and E. The correct balance of fats can be found in top rated healthy dog food. Importantly, fats supply fatty acids which dogs need for a multitude of reasons—from helping to provide healthier skin and coat to reducing inflammation in joints. Dogs can produce some of the fatty acids they need, but not all of them so these "essential" fatty acids must be supplied by their diet. Essential fatty acids are divided into two groups—Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Ingredients like chicken fat and sunflower oil are great sources of Omega-6 fatty acids while flax seed, herring oil and salmon oil are key sources of Omega-3 fatty acids. Fats should range around 20% and like Protein, can be found right on the guaranteed analysis portion normally located on the back or side of the bag. Again, like protein, this can be a higher or lower percentage given your dogs needs. It all depends on what you feel your dog must intake given their active level. The base range for a highly active sporting breed is around a 30% Protein/20% Fat mix diet so use that as your base line in judgement.

Carbohydrates are another source of energy for dogs. Unlike human marathon runners who scarf down plates of pasta before a big race, dogs rely on carb's as only a minor source of "boost" energy. Think of your dogs gas tank burning like this; fat first, protein second(unused protein gets stored as fat so the cycle continues). Carb's role in a dog's metabolism is to covert it to Glucose and pack a quick, immediate energy source that is very rapidly burned off. Whole grains such as, brown rice, barley and oats, are all low-fat sources of highly-digestible complex carbohydrates. Whole grains are also a rich source of dietary fiber which is crucial for healthy intestinal function. Whole grains are also helpful with the common problems of constipation in dogs, which can be caused by a diet that is lacking in fiber. Notice how we did not mention whole corn, wheat or soy? These are all low grade grains and contribute as only a minor source of glucose conversion.

At 8 weeks old, Dempsey, was started on a super premium diet. He will be a future bird hunting athlete for many years to come!

Vitamin A helps promote healthy bones, teeth, coat, skin, eyes, and mucous membranes. Vitamin A is important to the immune system and has been known to help ward off or fight respiratory infections

Vitamin B12 is necessary for proper growth and used to treat some types of nerve damage and pernicious anemia. B12 is also helpful in the recovery process our canine athletes endure during times of hunting or sporting related exercise.

Vitamin C is the world's most potent antioxidant immune booster. It is known to help prevent bacterial, viral and degenerative diseases such as arthritis, diabetes, auto immune disease and cancer. Vitamin C is water soluble and can lose potency when exposed to high temperatures. A favorite dog treats is baby carrots. I highly suggest trying them as a low cost/ great source of Vitamin C, Vitamin B, Potassium, and Calcium for your own dog(s). I would further suggest buying the organic/no preservative version as they are free of pesticides.

Vitamin D promotes skin, bone, connective tissue and heart health. It is necessary for the proper absorption and utilization of calcium and phosphorus. Just like your mother always said...drink your milk for strong bones...a strong supply of the Big "D" is an essential for your working gun dog.

Vitamin E is another valuable antioxidant that helps improve circulation and cardiac output.

Mixed Tocopherols are a natural preservative made from Vitamin E and found in all premium foods. Tocopherols are a good thing to see on an ingredient list. Watch out for harmful synthetic preservatives such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin, or propylene glycol that provide no nutritional value and have been associated with possible toxic side effects. FYI, synthetic preservative are used by low grade dog food companies because they are cheap!

Ingredients to look for...
There are not many dog food companies who add true Probiotics(healthy bacteria cultures to aid in digestion) Think of it like Actevia yogurt for dogs(you know the Jaime Lee Curtis commercials!) There are a few companies out there that add Probiotic cultures so when researching look for ingredients like Lactobacillus Acidophilus, Bacillus Subtilis, Bifidobacterium Thermophilum, Bifidobacterium Longum and Enterococcus Faecium. Each of these are active dehydrated cultures added after processing. They are activated on ingesting the food and help to maintain normal bacteria balance in the lower intestine. They aid in digestion and reduce the occurrence of diarrhea, contributing to colon and rectum health. The dog food companies who add active bacteria cultures for healthy digestion are the companies who truly separate themselves from the pack. Rest assured, their first concern is your dogs health, not their profit margin!

Many manufactures now add Prebiotics. Prebiotics are, in layman's terms, health food to help boost naturally preexisting Probiotic cultures already active in your dog's digestive system. Natural prebiotics are complex carbohydrates added to the ingredients of the food during the manufacturing process. The food is then eaten by your dog releasing the prebiotics or their technical term Fructo Oligo Sacharides(FOS). Finding a food with either(pre or probiotics) is a step in the right direction to a healthy dog! Please note, both Probiotic and Prebiotic ingredients are very low in actual volume so on the foods ingredient they are normally found towards the bottom.

It would be also helpful to look for foods that include high levels of potent Antioxidants such as cranberries and blueberries. Why? Some free radicals arise normally during metabolism. The canine’s body’ immune system cells purposefully create them to neutralize and help ward off viruses and bacteria. Environmental factors such as pollution, radiation, cigarette smoke and herbicides can also spawn free radicals. Normally, the canine body can handle free radicals, but if antioxidants are unavailable, or if the free-radical production becomes excessive, damage can occur over time to your dog's health and well being.

When shopping for a new dog food keep these helpful hints in mind...

• The top 10 ingredients usually comprise 80% or more of a dry pet food’s entire formula and give you a great perspective of its ingredient quality.
• All pet foods must list the ingredients present in their food, in order of weight. But understand, moisture content can lessen the volume in the ingredients. FYI. Ingredients are listed as "before cooking" weights and high moisture proteins can "shrink" greatly during the kibble cooking process.
• Whole meat protein based "meals"(previously ground dehydrated meat before cooking) are 300% more potent as a protein source than a pure meat source!
• Super premium pet foods have whole chicken, duck, venison, bison, lamb, turkey, beef, fish or other known quality meat protein sources in whole form or meal form as the first ingredient and a combination of at least 2-3 meat protein sources in the top 5 ingredients.
• "Animal By-Product" is by ingredient classification: "Animal by-products are ground, rendered, and cleaned slaughtered meat carcass parts such as necks, feet, undeveloped eggs, bones, heads, and intestines (and a small amount of feathers in the case of chicken) It is also known that the quality of animal by-products is very inconsistent between batches(sometimes more beaks and feats than quality organ meat etc). If you do choose a food that contains any "by-products" at minimum make sure they are a "named" protein. Aka, "Chicken" by-product etc. A compnay that just says "meat" by-product is probably hiding something even more disgusting than I would like to think about!
• If you pick up a bag of dog food and the A#1 very first ingredient is a grain source the red flags and sirens should go off in your head! I advise dropping the bag where your stand and moving on quickly!
• Some pet food brands list their ingredients in several different ways so that the ones of lower quality appear farther down the ingredient list. For example, a product list could contain chicken, ground corn, corn gluten, ground wheat and corn bran. And, if you were to group all of the corn ingredients as one, they would probably far out-weigh the amount of chicken in that food. This is a manufacturer's trick and a nonregulated loop hole when listing ingedient evidence!

Starting your new puppy out with a super premium food will not only prove it's worth to his or her energy in the field but in the overall health of their lives. It is never to late to switch your dog, regardless of age, to a food with premium ingredients. Remember, as humans we have the luxury of choosing our own diets. Your trusty four legged athlete does not! Feeding them right will prolong your time in the field as well as their life as your best friend.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

Dog Food Rating Formula

Recently, I came across a grassroots piece of research on dog food. It is the first and foremost ever "dog food rating formula" based solely on quantitative metrics. I was overwhelmed with excitement. Someone had finally taken the initiative to put ingredient ranking to paper and conceptualize a system of scoring. It is truly a step in the right direction to realistically rate overall dog food quality.

It is very obvious that this women has devoted considerable time developing her food rating formula. I applaud her for her efforts and support the future development of such systems. Her name is Sarah Irick. Her methodology and commitment to this formula is unbelievable. She should be honored for such an achievement. I hope she doesn't mind but I am posting her quotations as well as her formulaic breakout without asking permission first. We simply don't have time to waste getting this to more owners. I feel she would understand. As gun dog owners, we represent the last bastion of working dogs in this world. Our dogs are bred not only as loving companions, but to fulfill their genetic code brought on by ancient man who first domesticated wild dogs to help them hunt. The addition of the domesticated dog to the human hunting pack indeed contributed, and possibly catalyzed, the perpetual evolution of humanity as a whole. If you care about your dog, this is truly an important piece of work! Thank you Sarah for your time and service to those who wish to proliferate canine healthy and welfare.

According to Sarah..."There are so many different types of dog food on the market and so many different opinions about the best ingredients, manufacturing processes, supplements, etc that choosing the best food for your dog is definitely a challenge. Below you'll find a system that will help you 'rate' or evaluate, any dog food by taking a close look at it's ingredients, and doing a few simple calculations. It will help you find the best food for your dogs' individual needs. So relax, the confusion ends here! If only there was a way to do a basic dog food analysis, taking into account the dog food ingredients over many different types of dog food. Preferably one that doesn't require a degree math or science! Well, actually there is such a way of making dog food comparisons - and I'm about to show you exactly how to do it!

Start with a grade of 100 points, then …

For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points

For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source subtract 5 points. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points

If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points

If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points

If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

If it contains salt, subtract 1 point


Extra Credit(add to score)...

If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points

If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

If the food contains probiotics(bacteria cultures), add 3 points

If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

If the food contains barley, add 2 points

If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "fish" as 2 different sources), add 1 point

If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D
69 & Below = F

Well, although this may sound a little tricky, I promise that once you've analyzed a couple of different varieties of food, you'll be able to make some very useful dog food comparisons.
Then you'll be in a much better position to make dog food comparisons and be sure that you're giving your precious pup the very best, safest, healthiest and appropriate dog food.

Here is a list of popular dog food brands and how they rated out using her system...
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blue Buffalo Chicken & Brown Rice/ Score 106 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic / Score 119 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken / Score 114 A+
Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy / Score 94 A
Eagle Pack Natural / Score 94 A
Eukanuba Large Breed Adult / Score 83 C
Eukanuba Natural Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 A
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Iams Large Breed / Score 83 C
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Natural Balance Duck and Potato / Score 114 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Pedigree Adult Complete / Score 14 F
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Pro Plan Natural SElects Turkey & Barley / Score 103 A+
Purina Beneful / Score 17 F
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet chicken adult maintenance / Score 45 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Timberwolf Organics Lamb and Venison / Score 136 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (Bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A

Without question Sarah has it down to pure, blue collar science. Her metric rating system is well thought out and concise. I hope this helps breakdown what foods are beneficial and those that lack what your dog needs to not only perform better in the field but to live a long and happy life.

Best of luck out there. -Mark