June 9, 2010

Poisonous Plants

Spring has now made way to summer. The countryside hills are rolling in emerald green. Homes are full of flower arrangements and gardens burst with freshly grown fruits and vegetables. April showers have indeed brought May flowers and the warmth of June continues their natural explosion across the land. This time of year very few dogs can resist the urge to occasionally graze on sweet greens and flowering stems. But danger lurks behind those photosynthetic producing beauties! Here is a quick list of common plants and flowers that could make your four legged canine friend very sick if not very lucky to be alive if consumed! Some are found only for purchase at your local horticultural retailer while many others can be found in the wild(or right in your backyard!) Take some time to look over this list common and potentially deadly garden variety plants and ornamental flowers.

It's a good idea to know what plants your dog is sticking his mug into!

List of Poisonous Plants & Flowers For Your Dog To Avoid...

  • Amaryllis
  • Baby's Breath

  • Bird of Paradise

  • Black Eyed Susan

  • Bleeding Heart

  • Bluebonnet

  • Boston Ivy

  • Calla Lilly

  • Chrysanthemums

  • Cyclamen

  • Daffodil

  • Daisy

  • Elephant Ear

  • Easter Lilly

  • Ferns

  • Flamingo plant

  • Geranium

  • Hemlock

  • Honeysuckle

  • Hyacinth

  • Hydrangea

  • Ivy

  • Jade plant

  • Lantana

  • Larkspur

  • Marigolds

  • Morning Glory

  • Peony

  • Primrose

  • Rhododendron

  • Tiger Lily

  • Yucca

  • Apricot

  • Avocado

  • Black Cherry

  • Black Walnuts

  • Castor Beans

  • Catnip

  • Chokecherry

  • Eggplant

  • Garlic

  • Mushrooms

  • Mustard plants/greens

  • Onion

  • Peach

  • Plum

  • Potato(plant)

  • Pokeweed
  • Spinach
Make sure you are familiar with this list before planting or spending time where any of these plants or flowers are accessible to dogs. It is a good idea to keep the ASPCA Poison Control Hotline number 1-888-426-4435 programmed in your cell in case of an emergancy. The ASPCA Poison Center is staffed 24 hours a day/7 days a week/365 days a year by board certified veterinary toxicologists standing by to help. Enjoy the beauty of spring and summer but thank god fall is right around the corner!

Best of luck out there. -Mark

May 24, 2010

Field First Aid Kit: The 5 Essentials

Top 5 First Aid Items NEVER To Be Without In The Field:


1. Fresh, Clean Water: Obvious, but as a reminder...Always carry a water bottle with enough for the time spent in the field! Dehydration kills more dogs than any other field related injury! Even in the cold weather it is imperative to keep your dog properly hydrated. It can also help to wash out a wounds if needed.

2. Styptic Powder: Coagulates blood fast to stop bleeding and also is an antiseptic. A top essential for sure! Also, remember to calm yourself as well as your dog down in time of an emergency. Styptic usually comes in a small container and makes for a perfect fit for a 12g shell holder in your vest pocket! Remember to moisten it with a little water between your finger tips before applying.

3. Eye Wash: Sterile solution to flush out debris, dust or other irritants. Just a small bottle will go a long way in helping your dog clean out his eyes in the field. Use it during your breaks if hunting heavy, dirty or dusty cover. Your dog will thank you by finduing more birds for sure!

4. Leatherman: Multi-tools these days are unbelievable. Scissors, pliers, knifes, awls, wire cutters, etc. Pretty much has you covered for any tool emergency in one small, lightweight fold up package! If you hunt, a leatherman tool is a MUST have in any field. They can cover it all like cutting barb wire, pull out porcupines quills,

5. Stretch Gauze: Made by 3M and other manufacturers and sometimes refered to as "vet wrap". This stuff is to a gun dog owner what duct tape was to MacGyver. It is self adherring and can be used as a bandage, tourniquet, tape, as well as a million other possibilities. Maybe even plug a leaky water pipe back at the hunting camp if needed! It is also wise to carry sterile gauze pads(prepacked) to layer underneathe the stretch gauze wrap.


Having the essentials in my vest saved us a trip back to the truck. Dirt and debris found it's way into Dewey' eyes during this warm winter day. I quick rinse of eye silution and we were back at it. Good thing because the truck was 10 miles away!

Warning: Many folks urge the use of Super Glue to seal up wounds in the field. This is not advisible. Glueing together tissue and skin without proper dissenfecting the wound in a sterile environment can lead to infection and further complications. The field or marsh is NO place to super glue a cut!

This is just my "Top 5 Field Essentials." Your truck kit should contain much more and ALL that is needed to get your four legged hunting companion to the nearest vet clinic in the best shape possible. My truck box is a "mini triage" center complete with everything you would need to safely transport an injured dog. You also might decide to add a couple more regional specific items. Having the right tools is one thing. Knowing how to use them correctly during an emergency situation is the hardest part. I recommend studying up on canine first aid techniques and how to properly treat field related injuries correctly.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

May 5, 2010

Possible K9 Cancer Causing Toxins In Tap Water

I woke up this morning and the first thing I thought about was water. I needed it. I had to have it. I reached into the refrigerator and grabbed a cold bottle of spring water. I slugged it down until it was dry. Then it hit me...

I looked down at Dewey's water bowl by my feet. The sides were stained white by hard water marks. The remaining liquid in the bottom of the dish had turned a copperish hue overnight. How could it be that I have long neglected the most obvious of health concerns for my canine compatriot? It was then that I came to the realization that I had been greatly negligent over the years. I had forgotten the most essential of life's nutrients and the most obvious of natures true health foods. For as long as I can remember, my dogs both past and present received bowls filled straight from the tap. This morning marked a turning point for me. If I was going to feed Dewey the highest quality food, train him endlessly, love him dearly, then I should not forget the building block of any organism here on Mother Earth...fresh, clean, pure...H2O!

According to the website USA Water Quality Organization in partnership with the USDA claim-"Both community and private sources of drinking water are susceptible to a myriad of chemical contaminants, biological pollutants and nuisance water problems that may vary depending on site conditions and other factors. Some of the more common chemical pollutants include pesticides, fertilizers, petroleum products, and industrial solvents. Some problem organisms, including viruses, bacteria, protozoa and algae, cause nuisance problems with taste and odor while others are potential pathogens. Threats to drinking water quality come from animal and plant production agriculture, industrial activities and even activities around our businesses, residences, recreational areas and transportation systems."

If there are scientifically proven concerns about human health in relation to consumption of public and private drinking water then I can very confidently assume that the water flowing from my household tap and those across this country may very well NOT be the very best option for dogs. According to the website Free Drinking Water the following organic and inorganic contaminants are found in varying levels across the U.S. Although these studies are done only from the impact on humans...it is easy to see that are four legged friends are also in harms way.

Coliform bacteria are common in the environment and are generally not harmful. However, the presence of these bacteria in drinking water is usually a result of a problem with the treatment system or the pipes which distribute water, and indicates that the water may be contaminated with germs that can cause disease.

Fecal Coliform and E-Coli are bacteria whose presence indicates that the water may be contaminated with human or animal wastes. Microbes in these wastes can cause short-term effects, such as diarrhea, cramps, nausea, headaches, or other symptoms.

Turbidity: Can interfere with disinfection and provide a medium for microbial growth. Turbidity may indicate the presence of disease causing organisms. These organisms include bacteria, viruses, and parasites that can cause symptoms such as nausea, cramps, diarrhea, and associated headaches.

Cryptosporidium: A parasite that enters lakes and rivers through sewage and animal waste. It causes cryptosporidiosis, a mild gastrointestinal disease. However, the disease can be severe or fatal for people with severely weakened immune systems.

Giardia lamblia: A parasite that enters lakes and rivers through sewage and animal waste. It causes gastrointestinal illness (e.g. diarrhea, vomiting, cramps).

Alpha emitters: Certain minerals are radioactive and may emit a form of radiation known as alpha radiation. Some people who drink water containing alpha emitters in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Beta/photon emitters: Certain minerals are radioactive and may emit forms of radiation known as photons and beta radiation. Some people who drink water containing beta and photon emitters in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Combined Radium 226/228: Some people who drink water containing radium 226 or 228 in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.
Radon gas can dissolve and accumulate in underground water sources, such as wells, and in the air in your home. Breathing radon can cause lung cancer. Drinking water containing radon presents a risk of developing cancer. Radon in air is more dangerous than radon in water.

Arsenic: drinking water containing arsenic in excess of EPA's standard over many years could experience skin damage or problems with their circulatory system, and may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Flouride: Many communities add fluoride to their drinking water to promote dental health. Each community makes its own decision about whether or not to add fluoride. EPA has set an enforceable drinking water standard for fluoride of 4 mg/L (some people who drink water containing fluoride in excess of this level over many years could get bone disease, including pain and tenderness of the bones). EPA has also set a secondary fluoride standard of 2 mg/L to protect against dental fluorosis. Dental fluorosis, in its moderate or severe forms, may result in a brown staining and/or pitting of the permanent teeth. This problem occurs only in developing teeth, before they erupt from the gums. Children under nine should not drink water that has more than 2 mg/L of fluoride.

Lead: typically leaches into water from plumbing in older buildings. Lead pipes and plumbing fittings have been banned since August 1998. Children and pregnant women are most susceptible to lead health risks.

MTBE: is a fuel additive, commonly used in the United States to reduce carbon monoxide and ozone levels caused by auto emissions. Due to its widespread use, reports of MTBE detections in the nation's ground and surface water supplies are increasing. The Office of Water and other EPA offices are working with a panel of leading experts to focus on issues posed by the continued use of MTBE and other oxygenates in gasoline. EPA is currently studying the implications of setting a drinking water standard for MTBE.Drinking water, including bottled water, may reasonably be expected to contain at least small amounts of some contaminants.

Tap water may pose other risks. Hard water(such as my own here at my own home) contains iron, magnesium, or nitrates. But the MAJOR cause for concern is Chlorine and it's ill effects to humans...could this also be related to cancer in canines? I venture to guess it is highly probable!

This excerpt is from the website Pure Earth "The U.S. General Accounting Office reports that there are serious deficiencies in water treatment plants in 75% of the states. More than 120 million people (about 50% of the population) may get unsafe water according to a study conducted by the Natural Resources Defense Council. U.S. Health Officials estimate 900,000 people each year become ill - and possibly 900 die - from waterborne disease. The General Accounting Office estimates 66% of Safe Drinking Water Act violations are not reported. The contamination of water is directly related to the degree of contamination of our environment. Rainwater flushes airborne pollution from the skies, and then washes over the land before running into the, rivers, aquifers, and lakes that supply our drinking water. Any and all chemicals generated by human activity can and will find their way into water supplies. The chemical element chlorine is a corrosive, poisonous, greenish-yellow gas that has a suffocating odor and is 2 1/2 times heavier than air. Chlorine belongs to the group of elements called halogens. The halogens combine with metals to form compounds called halides. Chlorine is manufactured commercially by running an electric current through salt water. This process produces free chlorine, hydrogen, and sodium hydroxide. Chlorine is changed to its liquid form by compressing the gas, the resulting liquid is then shipped. Liquid chlorine is mixed into drinking water and swimming pools to destroy bacteria.

Until recently, concerns about drinking water focused on eliminating pathogens. The chlorine used to reduce the risk of infectious disease may account for a substantial portion of the cancer risk associated with drinking water. Chlorination of drinking water was a major factor in the reduction in the mortality rates associated with waterborne pathogens. The use of chlorine was believed to be safe. This view is evident in an article, which appeared on the back page of the New York Times. The report stated that with the use of chlorine, "Any municipal water supply can be made as pure as mountain spring water. Chlorination destroys all animal and microbial life, leaving no trace of itself afterwards". This statement reflected opinion accepted until recent years when halogenated organic compounds, such as chloroform, were identified in chlorinated drinking water supplies. Recent surveys show that these compounds are common in water supplies throughout the United States. These concerns about cancer risks associated with chemical contamination from chlorination by-products have resulted in numerous epidemiological studies. These studies generally support the notion that by-products of chlorination are associated with increased cancer risks. Chlorine is used to combat microbial contamination, but it can react with organic matter in the water and form dangerous, carcinogenic Trihalomethanes. According to Dr. Joseph M. Price, MD, in Moseby's Medical Dictionary, "Chlorine is the greatest crippler and killer of modern times. It is an insidious poison".

There are many reasons to concern ourselves with our water supply. But what can we do to cost effectively bringing good clean water to my glass and my dog's bowl after a hard day of hunting the upland country? Drinking bottled purified water is a possibility but economically and environmentally speaking it is not the best option for most. I decided to investigate the do-it-yourself filters available for sale at most home goods retailers everywhere. After much research I chose a PURwater filter. As advertised, it will remove 99% of contaminants possible from a stand alone filter system. Fortunately, Chlorine will dissipate from standing water in about 24 hours. I bought a jug type filter so that should work effectively for removing both the chlorine as well as removing heavy metals, cyst cultures, and organic/inorganic bacteria by the action of it's carbon filter. I will caution, some municipalities in this country are no longer using traditional chlorine. Instead they are using Chlorimine which does NOT dissipate from standing water like chlorine. Chlorimine is basically chlorine mixed with ammonia. I suggest you investigate what your city or town uses immediately. Chlorimine is an unproven alternative but is more cost effective for municipal water suppliers to use. During my research for this post I could find no definitive studies directly linking chlorimine to documented health issues. But with all synthetic chemical concoctions I would be VERY concerned.

May is Pet Cancer Awareness Month sponsored by PETCO Animal Supplies in partnership with the Morris Animal Foundation and Blue Buffalo Dog Food. I am not a Scientist, a Vet, or Medical Professional. I'm just a humble gun dog guy and passionate outdoorsman who cares greatly about our four legged friends. What I do know is 50% of all dogs die from some type of cancer related issue in this country every year. Could we speculate it is from abnormalities in our drinking water? After first investigating the possibilities, it is with great reason why I wrote this post. I feel it is highly possible given the data provided. If half of our dogs die from cancer, the great unknown is how many of those dogs develop cancer due directly to the very water they drink? I urge each of you to consider the quality of water you are supplying your dog. As always, preventative measures early on could equal less trips to the vet later.

I realize in this economic downturn priorities to survive are first and foremost. If you do choose to give a dog a home please try to provide him or her with with the best chances to live a long and happy life. Remember this...dogs where once wild creatures and only domesticated by early man to help provide an advantage when hunting for tribal food stores. In turn, canine prowess proliferated our human race by helping our forefathers harvest sustenance in times of need. It is our turn to repay their favor.

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

April 12, 2010

Dog Food Rating Formula

Recently, I came across a grassroots piece of research on dog food. It is the first and foremost ever "dog food rating formula" based solely on quantitative metrics. I was overwhelmed with excitement. Someone had finally taken the initiative to put ingredient ranking to paper and conceptualize a system of scoring. It is truly a step in the right direction to realistically rate overall dog food quality.

It is very obvious that this women has devoted considerable time developing her food rating formula. I applaud her for her efforts and support the future development of such systems. Her name is Sarah Irick. Her methodology and commitment to this formula is unbelievable. She should be honored for such an achievement. I hope she doesn't mind but I am posting her quotations as well as her formulaic breakout without asking permission first. We simply don't have time to waste getting this to more owners. I feel she would understand. As gun dog owners, we represent the last bastion of working dogs in this world. Our dogs are bred not only as loving companions, but to fulfill their genetic code brought on by ancient man who first domesticated wild dogs to help them hunt. The addition of the domesticated dog to the human hunting pack indeed contributed, and possibly catalyzed, the perpetual evolution of humanity as a whole. If you care about your dog, this is truly an important piece of work! Thank you Sarah for your time and service to those who wish to proliferate canine healthy and welfare.

According to Sarah..."There are so many different types of dog food on the market and so many different opinions about the best ingredients, manufacturing processes, supplements, etc that choosing the best food for your dog is definitely a challenge. Below you'll find a system that will help you 'rate' or evaluate, any dog food by taking a close look at it's ingredients, and doing a few simple calculations. It will help you find the best food for your dogs' individual needs. So relax, the confusion ends here! If only there was a way to do a basic dog food analysis, taking into account the dog food ingredients over many different types of dog food. Preferably one that doesn't require a degree math or science! Well, actually there is such a way of making dog food comparisons - and I'm about to show you exactly how to do it!

Start with a grade of 100 points, then …

For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points

For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source subtract 5 points. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points

If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points

If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points

If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

If it contains salt, subtract 1 point


Extra Credit(add to score)...

If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points

If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

If the food contains probiotics(bacteria cultures), add 3 points

If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

If the food contains barley, add 2 points

If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "fish" as 2 different sources), add 1 point

If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D
69 & Below = F

Well, although this may sound a little tricky, I promise that once you've analyzed a couple of different varieties of food, you'll be able to make some very useful dog food comparisons.
Then you'll be in a much better position to make dog food comparisons and be sure that you're giving your precious pup the very best, safest, healthiest and appropriate dog food.

Here is a list of popular dog food brands and how they rated out using her system...
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blue Buffalo Chicken & Brown Rice/ Score 106 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic / Score 119 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken / Score 114 A+
Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy / Score 94 A
Eagle Pack Natural / Score 94 A
Eukanuba Large Breed Adult / Score 83 C
Eukanuba Natural Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 A
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Iams Large Breed / Score 83 C
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Natural Balance Duck and Potato / Score 114 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Pedigree Adult Complete / Score 14 F
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Pro Plan Natural SElects Turkey & Barley / Score 103 A+
Purina Beneful / Score 17 F
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet chicken adult maintenance / Score 45 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Timberwolf Organics Lamb and Venison / Score 136 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (Bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A

Without question Sarah has it down to pure, blue collar science. Her metric rating system is well thought out and concise. I hope this helps breakdown what foods are beneficial and those that lack what your dog needs to not only perform better in the field but to live a long and happy life.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

March 17, 2010

Fighting Fleas, Ticks & Worms

The frozen tundra of winter has quickly giving up its frigid grasp. Jaybirds are chirping at daybreak and squadrons of geese are once again returning to their Canadian roots. Up here in the north country spring has definitely sprung. With the annual thaw-out also comes an influx of harmful micro critters that spawn and proliferate quickly as earthly temperatures increase. Time is now to mount an offensive and prepare for battle. In this post we will discuss how preventive medications can ward off fleas, ticks, and worms on or in your dog and hopefully prevent an expensive trip to the vets office this spring. Maybe you've heard brands like Frontline, Heartguard, Advantix, Interceptor, K9 Advantage, Sentinel and asked; what are these medications and what do they do? A good question probably followed quickly by another good question; which one is best for my dog? Let's take a walk down the flea, tick, and worm medication aisle at our virtual dog pharmacy. We'll take it one at a time and let you confidently decide which might just be the best fit for your trusty four legged hunting companion. Please keep in mind we are looking at a variety of different preventatives. Some are flea and tick only and a few are prescription worms medication that include a flea or tick formula. Some are topical(applied to skin) while others are oral(tablet form). Please keep it all in mind while reading the following post. Now lets begin...

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Frontline Plus
Frontline Plus is a monthly topical flea and tick preventative. Frontline Plus kills 100% of adult fleas on your dog within 18 hours and 100% of all ticks within 48 hours. Frontline Plus contains an insect growth regulator, S-methoprene, which kills flea eggs and larvae. It’s effective against all stages of the brown dog tick, the American dog tick, the lone star tick and the deer tick (the major carrier of Lyme disease). (3 Pack = 3 doses which lasts 3 months.)

Benefits
•Kills all existing fleas on your pet within 18 hours
•Each application provides a full month of protection
•Great for pets that swim since it's waterproof
• Kills ticks

How it works: Frontline Plus contains fipronil, a broad-spectrum insecticide and slow-acting poison that disrupts the central nervous system of fleas and ticks and S-Methoprene, an insect growth regulator that kills flea eggs and larvae. The active ingredients are stored in the sebaceous glands and are wicked out of the hair follicles and continuously re-applied to the coat for long-lasting, waterproof protection. Cautions: Your pet may experience some temporary irritation at the site of application. If signs persist or become more severe within a few days of application, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Availability: Frontline Plus is a non-prescription (over the counter) product.

How this product should be used:Use Frontline Plus for Dogs (fipronil 9.8% and S-methoprene 8.8%) on dogs and puppies 8 weeks or older. Frontline Plus for Dogs is available as 0.67 ml applicators for use on dogs and puppies up to 22 lbs, 1.34 ml applicators for dogs 23-44 lbs, 2.68 ml applicators for dogs 45-88 lbs and 4.02 ml applicators for dogs 89-132 lbs. Wait 24 hours to fully dry before swimming or bathing. Do not reapply for 30 days. Place the applicator tip through the animal's hair to the skin level between the shoulder blades. Apply the entire contents of the applicator in a single spot to the animal's skin. Use only one applicator per treatment.

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Avantage Multi
Advantage Multi is a once a month topical application that contains a combination of the insecticide (imidacloprid) and the parasiticide (moxidectin). Advantage Multi for Dogs is used for the prevention of heartworm and the treatment and control of flea infestations, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms.

Benefits:
•Prevents heartworms, roundworms, hookworms in dogs and cats as well as whipworms in dogs and ear mites in cats
•Easy, once a month, application
•Canine customers often purchase Preventic collars (sold separately) for tick protection

How it works: The active ingredient moxidectin is used for the prevention and control of heartworms and intestinal worms by disrupting nerve transmission resulting in the paralysis and death of the parasite. The active ingredient imidacloprid, acts on the nervous system of the flea to cause paralysis and subsequent death.

Availibility: Veterinarian Prescription Only

How should this medication be used: Advantage Multi is applied topically to the skin. It is not given by mouth. Follow the manufacturer's directions for application. Do not apply to irritated skin. Apply each dose once a month, every 30 days. If you do not understand the directions, or if you have difficulty applying the medication, contact your pharmacist or veterinarian.

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K9 Advantix
K9 Advantix (imidacloprid + permethrin) is a convenient monthly preventative for dogs that both repels and kills fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes. Because it repels and kills, K9 Advantix offers a more comprehensive protection against fleas & ticks in comparison to other veterinarian-recommended brands. K9 Advantix stops biting fleas within three to five minutes and kills 98-100 percent within 12 hours. (4 Pack = 4 doses which lasts 4 months.) K9 Advantix is not for use on cats.

Benefits:
•Kills & repels fleas, ticks, & mosquitoes
•Stops fleas from biting your pet in 3-5 minutes providing fast relief
•Kills adult fleas within 12 hours
•Kills flea larvae in under 20 minutes
•Repels disease-carrying mosquitoes before they bite
•Stops ticks from attaching and reduces risk of Lyme Disease & tickborne diseases
•Still works after your pet swims or is bathed

How it works: K9 Advantix is for use on dogs and puppies 7 weeks of age and older only. It is used for the topical prevention and treatment of fleas, mosquitoes and ticks including deer ticks (the major carrier of Lyme disease), American dog ticks, Brown dog ticks and lone star ticks. K-9 Advantix kills and repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes.

Availability: K9 Advantix is a non-prescription (OTC) product available as applicators for dogs 1-10 lbs (Green), 11-20 lbs (Teal), 21-55 lbs (Red), and 55 lbs and over (Blue).

How this medication should be used: For use only on dogs. Do not use on cats or on other animals. Part the hair on the dog's back, between the shoulder blades, until the skin is visible. For dogs up to 20 lbs, apply the entire contents of the tube to this one spot. For dogs 21 lbs and over, apply the contents of the applicator tube to the skin at 3 or 4 spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail. If the household has cats or other animals, separate from the treated dog for about an hour until the product is thoroughly dry.

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Sentinel
What is Sentinel? Sentinel is the only monthly oral preventive that guards against heartworms, adult roundworms, adult hookworms, whipworms, and prevents the development of flea eggs.

Benefits:
•Comes in palatable flavored tabs
•Easy to administer just once a month

How it works: Milbemycin oxime eliminates the tissue stage of heartworm larvae and the adult stage of hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm infestations. Lufenuron, the other active ingredient, is an insect development inhibitor that breaks the flea life cycle by inhibiting egg development. Lufenuron prevents most flea eggs from hatching or maturing into adults and thus prevents and controls flea populations by breaking the life cycle.
Sentinel may be given along with Capstar, which treats flea infestation(adult fleas).

Availability: Veterinarian Presciption Only

How should this medication be given: Give Sentinel exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. The usual dose of Sentinel for dogs 2 to 10 pounds is 2.3mg/46mg, 11 to 25 pounds is 5.75mg/115mg, 26 to 50 pounds is 11.5mg/230mg and 51 to 100 pounds is 23mg/460mg given once a month year round. For dogs over 100 pounds give the appropriate combination of tablets. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Sentinel for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Sentinel at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.

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Interceptor
What is Interceptor? Interceptor Flavor Tabs are a palatable once-a-month tablet that prevents heartworm disease, controls adult hookworms, and removes and controls adult roundworms and whipworm infections.

Benefits:
•Given once a month
•Easy to administer
•Broad spectrum activity

Availibility: Veterinarian Prescription Only

How it works: Interceptor Flavor Tabs eliminate the tissue stage of heartworm larvae and the adult stage of hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm infestations. The anthelmintic activity (destroying parasitic worms) of the active ingredient milbemycin oxime is believed to be a result of interfering with the invertebrates neurotransmission. Cautions: Side effects of Interceptor are rare, but some animals may show signs of depression, drowsiness, vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, hypersalivation, seizures, and weakness. If these or other symptoms develop contact your veterinarian. Since humans can contract hookworm and roundworm from animals, you should maintain good personal hygiene. To prevent reinfection, cleaning up stool daily is recommended. Don't give your pet Interceptor if you are already administering another heartworm .


How should this medication be given: Give Interceptor exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Interceptor for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Interceptor at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.
What happens if I miss giving a dose: Give the missed dose as soon as you remember. Do not give a double dose of the medication.

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HeartGuard Plus
What is Heartgard Plus?Heartgard Plus is a real-beef chewable tablet for dogs that provides protection against heartworms, and treats and controls roundworms and hookworms.

Benefits:
•Considered the most tasty heartworm chewable tablet
•Effectively controls heartworms, roundworms & hookworms
•Only given once a month

How it works: Heartgard Plus contains ivermectin, a broad-spectrum antiparasitic medication used to prevent heartworms. Heartgard Plus also contains Pyrantel Pamoate, an anthelminthic, used to prevent roundworms and hookworms.

Availibility: Veterinarian Precription Only

How should this medication be given: Give Heartgard Plus exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. Heartgard Plus chewable tablets must be chewed. They should not be swallowed whole. Use with caution in collies. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Heartgard Plus for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Heartgard Plus at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.

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This is indeed a ton of information on the latest heartworm, flea, and/or tick medication. Please keep in mind only prescription medications such as Sentinel, Heartguard, and Interceptor can prevent heartworm. I urge everybody to prepare their dogs for the spring onslaught of harmful critters today. Their is also a Lyme tick vaccine now available. We will post a comprehensive look into to this very soon so stay tuned to our blog! We also highly recommend switching to a permethrin based flea and tick shampoo during the warmer months to also help ward off those harmful critters even more. IA bimonthly bath of flea and tick over the counter shampoo will do wonders to help in the battle!

If you are wondering what I personally recommend here it is...
I give a monthly dose to Dewey(3.5 y.o. pointer) of Sentinel for flea and worms every month, year round. He is the first dog I have owed who is also on the Lyme tick vaccine with annual boosters and has been since 4 months old. From spring to late fall he gets a bath every 2 weeks with Perfect Coat Flea & Tick shampoo. I religiously go over him for ticks during our tailgate checks at the end of each workout or hunt. I also keep a "flea comb" in my truck and run it over him quickly before kenneling up and heading home. A flea comb might just be the best $0.99 you ever spend on your dog! They are available at most pet stores and not only work to remove crawling fleas but deer ticks as well. This is just what has worked for us but keep in mind Dewey is not a water dog, in fact, he hates water over ankle deep. He operates mostly in the northern midwest. He is a short hair and mostly white so it is easily to spot micro critters and his owner(i.e me) is nuts about thorough tailgate checks. Whiping a dog down and the flea comb mentioned prior is a valuable pactice in helping prevent issues without the aid of preventative medications...but not to replace those medications!

As always, being proactive now could save you a costly trip to the vet later.

Best of luck to each of you out there!

-Mark Northup



March 2, 2010

Is Corn Bad?

Corn on the cob is as American as apple pie. If you believe written history, gracious Native Americans first introduced harvested corn to Pilgrims at the first Thanksgiving dinner. For generations since, corn crops have been cultivated by hard working American farmers across this country's heartland. By the turn of the 20th century corn became a substantial source of agricultural wealth throughout the United States. As most will agree, corn is warm and buttery, making life feel good and wholesome as it passes across our lips. Ironically, we derive more nutritional value by eating just one slice of your grandmother's cinnamon coated apple pie recipe than we do by downing ten ears of corn!
Proof: Corn Free Diet = A Healthy, Happy Hunting Partner!

Like those of us who walk upright, our four legged hunting partners find the nutritional value of corn equally unrewarding and anything but beneficial to their diet. So the question remains...why do some dog food companies include corn or corn variations as their main ingredient? I will tell you why. Because some dog food companies in this country are cheap and corn is the cheapest "real" ingredient available. More so, your dogs overall health is inconsequential and unrelated to their return on investment..a.k.a the corporate mantra called ROI. Sad as it is but very true.

Is corn bad for dogs? The answer is: not really...BUT it doesn't do much good either and can possibly cause further health issues then just nutritional deficiency

Factoid: whole corn has a natural cased cellulose shell. Left as a whole kernel, corn is indigestible. Any human who has taken a look at their own waste the morning after after eating an ear of corn for dinner would completely agree. Basically, the cellulose shell creates a wall blocking all the nutrients "inside" the shell from becoming digested. The process of mashing and dehydrating corn down to "meal" or "ground" only changes it's appearance, not it's composition. It should also be pointed out that corn is directly related to many forms of allergens in sensitive dogs. Breeds such as boxers, pointers, labs, and bulldogs are more highly probable candidates for corn related allergies. Allergic reactions can come in the form of excessive dry skin, chronic hot spots, chronic eye discharge, and far too many digestive irregularities to list here in this one post!

The filler called "cellulose" is still there and still equally indigestible. Yes, the inside portion of corn or the "meat" is a marginal source nutrients. Like other grains, corn is a carbohydrate and fiber food. Eighty-one percent of the solid material in the corn kernel consists of sugars, starch, and dietary fiber, including insoluble cellulose and non-carbohydrate lignin in the seed covering and soluble pectins and gums in the kernel(non nutritious ingredients related to the shell) Corn has a small amounts of vitamin A, the B vitamin folate, and vitamin C. Corn is a moderately good source of plant proteins, but zein (its major protein) is deficient in the essential amino acids lysine, cystine, and tryptophan. Corn is low in fat and its oils are composed primarily of unsaturated fatty acids.

When taken into account, the ratio of cellulose shell material to nutrients in the average gram of dog food "corn meal" results in a digestible ingredient that is extremely low. Hypothetically speaking, if milk was the only thing of true substance and a manufacturer ground up the plastic bottle holding the milk all together as one product and called it "milk meal" you have the working equivalent of what corn meal is to dog food. Sure the milk is there but the "filler" is the cellulose or "plastic" containment taking up 19%(as we learned prior) of the overall formula. Remember, those are ingredients that can not be converted into nutritional sources for any animal on this planet! For any kid who has ever swallowed one of those small green army guys(yes, I have!)...those things are not digestible! That is corn cellulose in a nut shell. No pun intended!

The bottomline is, low grade dog foods loaded with low grade grain products such a corn, wheat, and soy cheapen the product. A dog's intestinal tract and stomach process food 6 times quicker then humans. It is imperative to supply them with food that is able to be quickly digested. That only comes from high quality ingredients! In the end you will need to feed less if you invest in a high grade dog food! The result to your wallet and the benefit to you dog is spending almost the same for feeding him or her a top quality food!

I don't know about you guys but corn or corn in any form as a primary ingredient doesn't sound like something I want to feed my dog. I urge each of you to look at your dog food bags and read closely. There are some major dog food manufacturers out there who load top five ingredients with corn or corn related ingredients. Ask yourself...is this something I would want to feed myself as the majority of my own diet, let alone my dog's? Then go ahead and purchase a better food!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

February 3, 2010

The Holistic Gun Dog

Holistic and gun dog aren't words that flow together easily. To me, Holistic conjures up names like Sunbeam and Moonshadow practicing psychedelic medicine in black lit rooms while swaying to the beat of The Dead or The Doors. So how does the holistic dog food movement of today fit into our world of hard charging pointers, muddy retrievers, and filthy flushers? As twenty first century hunters and dog owners, we are residing in the dawn of canine enlightenment. Time is ripe to investigate the possibility of feeding our trusty hunting dog seriously top quality food. But first we must free our minds from all the marketing hype and worn thin standards that have been hand fed to us for years. There is a whole new world to be investigated out beyond the myths and legends of the past. Let's take a magic carpet ride as I try to shed some light on the holistic dog food movement happening around us. Be forewarned, the following facts will benefit the health and overall well being of your four legged hunting partner. As a positive consequence it will likely extended his or her life and athleticism in the field. All aboard the yellow submarine. Like Hendrix once asked, are you experienced?

It is long overdue that gun dog owners start seeing the big picture in HD clarity. 100% natural, holistic, and/or organic based food formulas have a place in our gun dog community. It is up to us as responsible owners and the leaders of the next generation to realize this. The fortune 500 have corner stoned the gun dog food mantra for decades. They have the big bucks to produce advertising campaigns that push the average hunter/owner towards their product. Glossy, full page ads show majestic breeds in well positioned action shots that adorn hunting magazine pages. Like all savvy marketing and advertising execs, pushing the right buttons when it comes to delivering the "live the lifestyle" or "be the brand" type advertising is why they get paid heaps of cash. This is not to say their product is not good but why is it that only a few major players are the standard of sporting dog foods? Is this solely because the longevity of their product and bank roll of the company? I was a huge advocate for many years of one particular brand. But then again, I am always a sucker for flashy advertising and openly admit to my own hardheadedness when it comes to change. For a long while it was difficult for me to finally accept the hard truth of what I was really feeding my dog and the truth was not good.

Proof of legitimacy is not found in today's advertising. Truth is only discovered by proven facts founded by quantitative science and then witnessing the results firsthand.

In the case of dog food, truth is found by analyzing Guarantee Analysis and Product Ingredients from two different companies in a side-by-side comparison. Company "A" is one of the mega players in the dog food industry and is a national leader in sales to the sporting dog consumer. They have been around for eons. A massive portion of their marketing and advertising budget is dedicated to proliferating their message to the hunting community. Company "B" is a relatively new, independently owned company who specializes in 100% natural, holistic ingredient food. They have never advertised in any hunting media nor have marketed within the hunting community. They are, however, strong proponents of all breeds and support all sporting dogs for their inherited working ability.

Before you go any further, I highly suggest you read my post titled Performance Dog Foods. It will instruct you how to properly read both types of listings. Please note: Guaranteed Analysis and Ingredient Listing below are for foods labelled and classified for retail sale only as a comparable chicken based "large breed adult formula" from both companies in question. Information has been taken directly from the each manufacturers public information website.

The Mega Company "A" Ingredients
Large Breed Adult Formula
Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley, Chicken By-Product Meal, Chicken Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp, Dried Egg Product, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Fish Meal, Potassium Chloride, Brewers Dried Yeast, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Salt, Flax Meal, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Choline Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Fructooligosaccharides(Prebiotics that aid in digestive health), Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), DL-Methionine, Dried Chicken Cartilage, Vitamins (Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Vitamin E Supplement, Beta-Carotene, Rosemary Extract.


The Small Company "B" Ingredients
Large Breed Adult Holistic Formula
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Whole Ground Brown Rice, Whole Ground Barley, Oatmeal, Tomato Pomace (natural source of Lycopene), Natural Chicken Flavor, Chicken Fat (naturally preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Whole Potatoes, Peas, Flaxseed(natural source of Omega 3 and 6 Fatty Acids), Whole Carrots, Whole Sweet Potatoes, Blueberries, Cranberries, Barley Grass, Dried Parsley, Garlic, Alfalfa Meal, Dried Kelp, Yucca Schidigera Extract, L-Carnitine, L-Lysine, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Chondroitin Sulfate, Turmeric, Dried Chicory Root, Oil of Rosemary, Beta Carotene, Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Niacin (Vitamin B3), d-Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Biotin (Vitamin B7), Folic Acid (Vitamin B9), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Calcium Ascorbate (source of Vitamin C), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Choline Chloride, Sodium Selenite, Calcium Iodate, Salt, Caramel, Potassium Chloride, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecium(bacteria cultures activated on ingesting the food and help to maintain normal bacteria balance in the lower intestine. They aid in digestion and reduce the occurrence of diarrhea, contributing to colon and rectum health)

Company "A" Guaranteed Analysis
Large Breed Adult Formula
Crude Protein: 23.00 % minimum
Crude Fat: 13.00 % minimum
Crude Fat: 16.00 % maximum
Crude Fiber: 5.00 % maximum
Moisture: 10.00 % maximum
Omega-6: 2.4 %* minimum
Omega-3: 0.3 % minimum
Glucosamine: 375 mg/kg minimum
Chondroitin Sulfate: 35 mg/kg minimum

Company "B" Guaranteed Analysis
Large Breed Adult Holistic Formula
Crude Protein: 26.0% minimum
Crude Fat: 12.0% minimum
Crude Fiber: 5.0% maximum
Moisture: 10.0% maximum
Omega 6: 2.25% minimum
Omega 3: 0.10% mimimum
Glucosamine: 400 mg/kg minimum
Chondroitin Sulfate 300 mg/kg minimum


From a pure ingredient stand point it is very clear to see a remarkable difference between the two large breed adult formulas. Remember, ingredients are listed by weight from highest to lowest in the listing. In my opinion the first 3-5 ingredients are critical in determining how effective they truly are. Also remember, any ingredient called "Meal" is just ground dehydrated product. I will, as I sure my dog will, take Chicken Meal over Corn Meal as the number two ingredient. Corn of any form is just a low grade, difficult to digest, source of carbohydrates. Chicken Meal on the other hand is a huge source of pure protein and is high digestible. Also, Company "B" uses no by-products in their ingredient listing where as Company "A" listed Chicken By-Product as the fourth heaviest ingredient in their formula which left me scratching my own head and started me on my way to rethinking what food I should be feeding. I also liked the fact that Company "B" had a huge level of Chondroitin(300mg/kg) per serving over a slim Company "A" Chondroitin level of only 35mg/kg. The more joint and cartilage support I can supply my dog the better. I know he will absorb as much as he needs and expel the rest.

Lets talk money. I first considered the monthly dollar difference a major concern when making the switch. I am sure the average gun dog owner thinks the same. A 40lb bag from Company "A" costs $51.99(price found at the nearest national pet food retailer). A 30lb bag(largest produced) by Company "B" is priced the same(found at same retailer on 2/17/10). OK, so a ten pound difference might seem like a lot. It did to me. But I tried the switch anyway. Come to find out, my 65lb/3y.o. pointer named Dewey needed to eat less everyday. He was able to digest(process needed nutrients better) more and needed to consume less to feel full. On average and over the course of the six weeks past his food transition phase Dewey went from regularly eating 2.5 cups a day of Company "A" to no more than 2 cups per day of Company "B". A general rule of thumb is a 40lb bag of dry dog foods contains approximately 100 cups. OK, freaks and geeks out there I realize this is NOT an exact science! Pounds and cups are incomparable units of measure and the size or volume of the actual food kibble size might skew this one one or the other. But for the sake of an economic comparison we are fairly accurate. Here is the breakout. Sharpen your pencil and break out a calculator...

40lb. of dry dog food = 100 cups(est.)
30lb. of dry dog food = 75 cups(est.)

If both bags cost $51.99(current retail value at time of posting)...

40lb bag costs $0.52 per cup
30lb bag costs $0.69 per cup

=difference of $0.17 per cup
The nutritional absorption of Company "B" resulted in a decrease in the amount I needed to feed Dewey daily. Please keep in mind this comparision is based on daily maintenance ration size(low work days!). The same comparision varibles held true during high laod work days, i.e. hunting/conditin/training


Daily Serving Comparison2.5 cups daily serving needed of Company "A" 40lb bag = 40 daily servings per bag
2.0 cups daily serving needed of Company "B" 30lb bag = 37.5 daily servings per bag

Cost Comparison Results
End equation results in +$1.73 per bag overall total variance per bag quantity to feed Company "B" holistic formula over Company "A" comparable adult large breed dog food. The bottom line is, I need to feed LESS but spend MORE at time of purchase for LESS quantity but the end result is only a total difference of $1.73 extra per bag of dog food purchased! That's amazing!

Proof always lies within the tangibles. The quality of ingredients found in the overall formula of the food clearly shows that holistic, 100% pure natural dog food are worth their weight in gold. If you care about the health and well being of your favorite four legged friend than feeding a truly natural/holistic based diet is a must.

I did a lot of soul searching and finally realized I had been putting my own ego in front of my dogs overall well being. This is not to say my dog or past dogs were not healthy but I never stopped to ask myself...could they be better? Currently, Dewey maintains the same healthy weight at 65lbs. I am most impressed by his increased recovery time and overall stamina in the field. He was always a high energy dog but seeing his ability to recover quickly after a long, stressful hunt and work equally as hard the following day is very impressive. His coat and fur are consistently shiny and I have stopped needing to give him any vitamin supplements as I had in the past(that alone is a $25 a month saving!)

When hanging around fellow hunters these days the topic of dog food always seems to arise. I let them know I made a drastic change. My dog and I no longer run with the pack. We run further and harder than the rest of them now. Those who have hunted with us nod their heads and quietly agree. But then again, my dog is now a holistic hunter. Peace and love my brother!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark