Gun Dogs Report to Training Camp

Like Pavlov's bell, the last week in July triggers football fans to salivate at the mouth. Hometown teams are yet again arriving at their respective training camps to gear up for another hard fought season. Rabid fans speculate that this is "the year" their team brings home the Super Bowl. Turn on the radio dial or flip the t.v. remote and sports talk show hosts are full of outlandish predictions believing wholeheartedly in their own swami like mysticism. Just like football players getting in game shape, all serious gun dogs and their owners must now check in for preseason conditioning drills. The summertime vacation is officially over. It won't be long before opening day and our four legged hunting partners must be ready to run the playbook from front to back! For most serious bird hunters it is about 10-12 weeks before before kickoff of the 2010 waterfowl and/or upland season. It is up to us as canine masters to stick to a routine schedule of physical fitness. Here a few things to keep in mind during the 2010 Gun Dog Training Camp...

• Make a tight schedule and stick to it! Not only will the increased physical activity help your dog become fit, it just might help you shed a couple unwanted pounds in the process. Remember, for every mile you walk a field this season, your dog will likely cover three times that if not more!


• Start transitioning your dog to a higher Protein/Fat percentage food. Remember 30/20% is about the average mix for a steadily working gun dog.


• In addition to scheduled daily workouts, mix it up a bit for your dog's personal enjoyment. Visit different training fields, run stadium stairs, strap on the roller blades, take a bike ride together, etc...whatever you come up with to variate the routine while still maximizing your dog's fitness regiment.


• Take it easy on the treats. Scale back the grain based "Scooby Snacks" and move to high protein sourced rewards such as dehydrated duck or chicken strips.


• Workout at daybreak or sunset. Your dog will most likely be hunting as the sun rises or sets. The time is now to get both your time clocks set and dialed in for maximum activity. These are the bewitching hours where animals are most active, including birds and your trusty bird dog. To further mention, dawn and dusk are the coolest part of the day in both temperature and experience!


• Take your dog for a preseason vet visit for a complete physical. Get him or her checked out thoroughly and ready rock n' roll come opening day! Blood tests, stool samples, and wellness check should be included during this visit. Just like pro athletes, it is always a good idea to get a clean bill of health before the season starts.


• Train and condition in fields with heavy cover. Get your dogs paw pads and under carriage toughened up now. Early season bird cover is not much different than summer field conditions. Briar's, thorns, nettles, etc are all present so get out there and mix it up in the rough stuff!


• If you have not already, train your dog to drink from a sport squirt bottle or hydration pack hose nozzle. It will help them rehydrate quickly and much easier to administer in the field.


• Get your dog on LIVE birds before the season opens. Even if it at a local preserve or just a few hobbled pigeons shot out on the back forty, this is critical piece of training camp. Live bird drills should always be a live fire! Leave the popper shells for field trailers! Pack the heat and drop those birds that your dog proudly found on his own.

Off-seasoning conditioning leads to in-season productivity! Feed them right and prepare them accordingly.

And finally...more for the sanity of the master than gun dog! Get all the honey do's out of the way NOW! Fix the deck, paint the bathroom, repair the fence or whatever it is. Bird hunting season is short and it is ALWAYS a good idea to have as much sweat equity built up as possible!

I hope all of you have a great 2010 Gun Dog Training Camp and more importantly looking forward to a productive season. God knows I am!

Best of luck out there. -Mark

Is Corn Bad?

Corn on the cob is as American as apple pie. If you believe written history, gracious Native Americans first introduced harvested corn to Pilgrims at the first Thanksgiving dinner. For generations since, corn crops have been cultivated by hard working American farmers across this country's heartland. By the turn of the 20th century corn became a substantial source of agricultural wealth throughout the United States. As most will agree, corn is warm and buttery, making life feel good and wholesome as it passes across our lips. Ironically, we derive more nutritional value by eating just one slice of your grandmother's cinnamon coated apple pie recipe than we do by downing ten ears of corn!

Proof: Corn Free Diet = A Healthy, Happy Hunting Partner!

Like those of us who walk upright, our four legged hunting partners find the nutritional value of corn equally unrewarding and anything but beneficial to their diet. So the question remains...why do some dog food companies include corn or corn variations as their main ingredient? I will tell you why. Because some dog food companies in this country are cheap and corn is the cheapest "real" ingredient available. More so, your dogs overall health is inconsequential and unrelated to their return on investment..a.k.a the corporate mantra called ROI. Sad as it is but very true.

Is corn bad for dogs? The answer is: not really...BUT it doesn't do much good either and can possibly cause further health issues then just nutritional deficiency

Factoid: whole corn has a natural cased cellulose shell. Left as a whole kernel, corn is indigestible. Any human who has taken a look at their own waste the morning after after eating an ear of corn for dinner would completely agree. Basically, the cellulose shell creates a wall blocking all the nutrients "inside" the shell from becoming digested. The process of mashing and dehydrating corn down to "meal" or "ground" only changes it's appearance, not it's composition. It should also be pointed out that corn is directly related to many forms of allergens in sensitive dogs. Breeds such as boxers, pointers, labs, and bulldogs are more highly probable candidates for corn related allergies. Allergic reactions can come in the form of excessive dry skin, chronic hot spots, chronic eye discharge, and far too many digestive irregularities to list here in this one post!

The filler called "cellulose" is still there and still equally indigestible. Yes, the inside portion of corn or the "meat" is a marginal source nutrients. Like other grains, corn is a carbohydrate and fiber food. Eighty-one percent of the solid material in the corn kernel consists of sugars, starch, and dietary fiber, including insoluble cellulose and non-carbohydrate lignin in the seed covering and soluble pectins and gums in the kernel(non nutritious ingredients related to the shell) Corn has a small amounts of vitamin A, the B vitamin folate, and vitamin C. Corn is a moderately good source of plant proteins, but zein (its major protein) is deficient in the essential amino acids lysine, cystine, and tryptophan. Corn is low in fat and its oils are composed primarily of unsaturated fatty acids.

When taken into account, the ratio of cellulose shell material to nutrients in the average gram of dog food "corn meal" results in a digestible ingredient that is extremely low. Hypothetically speaking, if milk was the only thing of true substance and a manufacturer ground up the plastic bottle holding the milk all together as one product and called it "milk meal" you have the working equivalent of what corn meal is to dog food. Sure the milk is there but the "filler" is the cellulose or "plastic" containment taking up 19%(as we learned prior) of the overall formula. Remember, those are ingredients that can not be converted into nutritional sources for any animal on this planet! For any kid who has ever swallowed one of those small green army guys(yes, I have!)...those things are not digestible! That is corn cellulose in a nut shell. No pun intended!

The bottomline is, low grade dog foods loaded with low grade grain products such a corn, wheat, and soy cheapen the product. A dog's intestinal tract and stomach process food 6 times quicker then humans. It is imperative to supply them with food that is able to be quickly digested. That only comes from high quality ingredients! In the end you will need to feed less if you invest in a high grade dog food! The result to your wallet and the benefit to you dog is spending almost the same for feeding him or her a top quality food!

I don't know about you guys but corn or corn in any form as a primary ingredient doesn't sound like something I want to feed my dog. I urge each of you to look at your dog food bags and read closely. There are some major dog food manufacturers out there who load top five ingredients with corn or corn related ingredients. Ask yourself...is this something I would want to feed myself as the majority of my own diet, let alone my dog's? Then go ahead and purchase a better food!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

Healthy Gun Dog Treats

Walk into any local pet store today and the sheer number of different dog treats is astounding. Gone are the days of only a few different treats offered by longtime brands that churned out bland, bone shaped biscuits. Today, flashy packaging and colorful displays line the aisles with hundreds of choices for your trusty bird dog to snack on between meals. In this post I will focus on one manufacturers that I recommend and hopefully help narrow down your search. This company makes all of their products right here in the good old U.S. of A! All are made with quality, wholesome ingredients that will not only make your dog wag his tail in delight but also pack nutritious supplements that benefit all highly active sporting breeds.

Zukes, A small Durango, CO company was founded in 1995 and has been consistently producing an assortment of the finest dog treats on the market. According to their website; Unlike other treats that are comprised of unrecognizable 14 letter ingredients, Zuke's is formulated to provide the specific nutrients your dog needs. Our products include the finest meats, premium grains, fruits, vegetables and oils available. With Zuke's treats you'll never find any harsh preservatives like BHA, added animal fat, nasty by–products or artificial colors or flavors. In other words, we don't put anything in our products that we wouldn't eat ourselves. I highly recommend and use all Zukes products but my top picks are their "Z-Fillets" and "Power Bones". Their Z-Fillets will make any dog jump up and go crazy in edible anticipation. Just the fresh smell from opening the bag with have your dog by your side in a millisecond. These treats are 100% pure, premium meat resulting in a high protein snack for added strength, health, and vitality. Their "Power Bones" are exactly what they sound like. According to their website; they are like an energy bar for people but for dogs. I could not agree more! These are the perfect treat to pack in your hunting vest and use to recharge your gun dog on those long treks into the backcountry...or when you realize both of you are 12 miles from where you parked and the walk back now seems even further! Again, please click on the image link to visit their website. Zukes website.

Without doubt there are now hundreds of other great manufacturers making treats in this world. I have focused on only one brand since I believe in only writing about what has worked successfully for my own dogs in the past and present! Next time you are in your local pet store take a little extra time to find a treat that will not only satisfy your dog's craving for the munches, but one that is also a healthy supplement to his or her diet. Your dog will love you even more...and if your lucky, hunt for you a little harder on your next trip to the field.

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

E-Collar Tips

Many potentially great bird dogs have been ruined by an overeager owner that misguidingly introduces an e-collar into their dog's training regiment. I strongly advise any new user to put in serious time researching and studying the various disciplines from noted professionals before strapping an e-collar on to your own dog for the first time. This is serious business and one that should not be taken lightly. There are a tremendous amount of benefits from adding the e-collar but if steps to mastery are construed or overlooked it is possible to do more harm than good. These are just a few tips that I have picked up along the way which consistently work for me, my own dogs, and others I have helped train using an e-collar.

First and foremost, read the entire manual of whatever brand and model you have chosen. I know it sounds juvenile but the e-collar is not some mundane household appliance! Make sure you know all the functions, various setting, and level adjustments. More harm then good can come to your dog if you are not proficient yourself in it's power!

The dog must first master all verbal commands before switching him to an e-collar. E-collars are NOT a replacement for the check cord and basic obedience training. Ask yourself and be brutally honest, "Does my dog already respond 100% of the time to Here, Whoa, Sit, Stay, etc? If you answered NO, stop right here and get refocused on mastering the basics using just a check cord.

Before even turning the collar on, take about 2 weeks to condition your dog to the collar itself. Incorporate the wearing of e-collar with his fun play time. By the end of 2 weeks he hopefully is associating the e-collar with fun. If you notice your dog getting excited and wagging uncontrollably when he sees you pick up the collar, you are headed down the right path! Remember, 2 weeks is just an estimate. This time could be shorter or longer depending on the dog. Read your dog by using your best judgement and be patient.

You and your dog are now ready to turn the collar on. This begins with both e-collar AND check cord in place. The association must be made that the e-collar pressure will now be replacing his cord pressure.

Remember, Stay consistent, keep it simple, and always very positive(your own attitude must always be positive)

Finding the proper stimulation level is a critical phase in your switch from long check cord to e-collar. First, start at the lowest nick setting during a basic obedience drill. I use the "Here" command to begin. Something like this. Call him "Here" (or whatever word you use for your return command) Even if he comes, act quickly and apply only cord pressure towards you. This will reinforce is foundation of "Here" with cord pressure he has mastered in his prior basic obediance. Repeat this a few times. Then call "Here" push nick button "Here" all while applying cord pressure towards you. Slowly move up in level until you see your dog respond with either a swallow, tongue out, drop his shoulders, while reacting to the command properly. Do not go any higher in level.

For example my nick setting for my pointer during his initial training was reached at level 4. We determined this is the lowest level of pressure he needed to elicit a physical response

Again, be patient and understanding. There is a lot of mental stress at this point. Think baby steps! On day 1 only practice the check cord/e-collar conditioning pressure together a few times. I recommend 3-4 times only. ALWAYS reward with verbal praise and a nice rub on the shoulder!

Going forward, the following weeks should be taken very slowly. Keep reinforcing e-collar/check cord pressure and slowly introduce other verbal commands to the "Command" nick "Command" routine...but only at your dog's pace, not your own! The minute interest and attention is lost, stop and start play time.

There will be tough days where he is just not into it. Stop and play. Come back to it later. Again be patient. Give him extra shoulder rubs and more positive "Good Boy!" when a job is well done.

Personally, I very rarely use the continuous stimulation button. Or as I call it "the heater". I only use it very sparingly and never in the first few days during the introduction phase. The only time I ever find myself reaching for the heater is when my dog's own instincts override his training. This can be caused by overwhelming distractions such as when his "chase" instinct kicks in. Normally this is used only when a "No" nick "No" command fails to stop the action. I then will apply "No" Continuous "No". Used sparingly it is very sharp reminder to your dog or puts himself in danger, like running across a road!

My best experience is with SportDog model collars. SportDog brand is unique in the fact that their collars also incorporate a "tone" function. The tone is simply a non shock button that sends an on command beep to the collar, thus replacing the need for a whistle blow. I have found this one function of the collar to be used during the majority of my dog's later training where the "nick" is slowly replaced by the "tone"(but only after mastering the verbal/nick process). Again, this was another long conditioning process.

I can not strongly reiterate enough, take everything extremely slow. If you find yourself or your dog becoming overwhelmed. Take a break. Have fun and KEEP IT SIMPLE.

I hope you have found a couple helpful tips. These should not take the place of the research and studying you have done from the hundreds of great professional trainers and e-collar training manuals available.

Have fun out there. -Mark