True Performance

As gun dog owners I believe we all strive for the same collective results. A dog that works hard and covers a lot of ground. A dog that is well trained and highly motivated. A dog that is fit and physical. A dog that truly loves to hunt for us and share the thrill. At the end of the day when the last feather floats to the ground, our gun dogs are truly our most faithful and trusted companions. But what are we doing to return their hard work, devotion and commitment? Better yet, what are we doing to make our good dogs great?

Like all living organisms, it starts and ends with nutrition. Food is the fuel that steams our dogs engine and stokes the fire within. Without quality food your dog will never reach his or her full potential in the marsh, woods, or field. These days more and more manufacturers are focusing on producing high quality dog foods. Unfortunately, there are still those owners who believe dog food found at a grocery store is just as good. This simple is not the case. Canines specifically produced and trained to hunt are animal athletes. With any athlete, the quality of their diet dictates their overall performance on the field of play. Over the past year many of my blog posts have hopefully shed some light of the positive and negatives effect of both proper and improper nutrition. Fall is upon us and most hunting seasons across this country are only days away from opening. Unfortunately, for a dog to fully adjust to a food change it can take 4-6 weeks to see any results in the field. But it is never to late to switch from an inexpensive "grocery store" brand to a premium food. If this is your first visit to my blog I urge you to read past posts titled,  Pocket Guide For Dog Food Consumers, The Holistic Gun Dog, and Performance Dog Foods for a more in depth look.

But you may ask, what makes a dog food low or high quality? Great question but one you can answer for yourself very quickly by following these helpful red and green flags. Here is my blue collar round up on things to watch for...

Red flags for low quality dog foods contain:

• ANY Grain source as #1 ingredient
• High amounts corn, soy, and/or wheat grain sources in ingredients overall/any combination
• Grain Gluten in ANY form(low grade protein source)
• Unspecified mystery "Meat" ingredients such as Meat Meal, Meat By-product, etc
• Synthetic preservetives such as, BHT(Butylated Hydroxyanisole), BHA(Butylated Hydroxytoluene), Propylene Glycol, Ethoxyquin
• Food coloring agents aka; color #whatever 

Green flags for high quality dog foods contain:

• Whole meat or whole meat meal proteins such as chicken, duck, beef, bison, fish, lamb, etc as the first ingredient
• Low overall grain ingredient content and gluten free
• At least 2 meat type proteins in top 5 ingredients(including meat protein meals which are a very high source of quality protein)
• Natural preserved with mixed tocopherols(vitamin E)
• Powerful antioxidents such as blueberries, cranberries, etc
• Contain Prebiotics and/or Probiotics aka; Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecium



Nothing better than seeing a well fueled, hard charging dog having fun hunting birds!

  The above mentioned red or green flags are a great way to quickly establish whether or not a dog food is grocery or premium. But be advised, some manufactures who are considered "premium" producers slip red flags into there formula's to cut costs. Do NOT be fooled. Do your due diligence and read the label in it's entirety. Do not be fooled by the disclaimer on every bag of food in this country: Approved by AAFCO (Association of American Feed Control Officials) Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for all life stages. The AAFCO has in most nutritionists opinion regulate and allow a very low level(base minimum) of acceptance on what they consider a food "formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the the minimum nutrients in dog food". In other words, all dog food for sale in America must reach these low standards before they can even be allowed to bring the product to market. Yep, even Ol' Roy met AAFCO approval so that is not saying much!

I hope this brief round up helps you make a more educated decision when shopping for your gun dogs next bag of food. There are some really wonderful manufacturers out there doing the right thing for our dogs. I don't guarantee many things but I will guarantee this; switching your dog to a high quality diet will vastly improve their performance in the field and in the home. Don't be scared away from the higher prices. If the health and wellbeing of your fourlegged hunting partner is important to you, price should not be the first concern.

Best of luck out there. -Mark



Possible K9 Cancer Causing Toxins In Tap Water

I woke up this morning and the first thing I thought about was water. I needed it. I had to have it. I reached into the refrigerator and grabbed a cold bottle of spring water. I slugged it down until it was dry. Then it hit me...

I looked down at Dewey's water bowl by my feet. The sides were stained white by hard water marks. The remaining liquid in the bottom of the dish had turned a copperish hue overnight. How could it be that I have long neglected the most obvious of health concerns for my canine compatriot? It was then that I came to the realization that I had been greatly negligent over the years. I had forgotten the most essential of life's nutrients and the most obvious of natures true health foods. For as long as I can remember, my dogs both past and present received bowls filled straight from the tap. This morning marked a turning point for me. If I was going to feed Dewey the highest quality food, train him endlessly, love him dearly, then I should not forget the building block of any organism here on Mother Earth...fresh, clean, pure...H2O!

According to the website USA Water Quality Organization in partnership with the USDA claim-"Both community and private sources of drinking water are susceptible to a myriad of chemical contaminants, biological pollutants and nuisance water problems that may vary depending on site conditions and other factors. Some of the more common chemical pollutants include pesticides, fertilizers, petroleum products, and industrial solvents. Some problem organisms, including viruses, bacteria, protozoa and algae, cause nuisance problems with taste and odor while others are potential pathogens. Threats to drinking water quality come from animal and plant production agriculture, industrial activities and even activities around our businesses, residences, recreational areas and transportation systems."

If there are scientifically proven concerns about human health in relation to consumption of public and private drinking water then I can very confidently assume that the water flowing from my household tap and those across this country may very well NOT be the very best option for dogs. According to the website Free Drinking Water the following organic and inorganic contaminants are found in varying levels across the U.S. Although these studies are done only from the impact on humans...it is easy to see that are four legged friends are also in harms way.

Coliform bacteria are common in the environment and are generally not harmful. However, the presence of these bacteria in drinking water is usually a result of a problem with the treatment system or the pipes which distribute water, and indicates that the water may be contaminated with germs that can cause disease.

Fecal Coliform and E-Coli are bacteria whose presence indicates that the water may be contaminated with human or animal wastes. Microbes in these wastes can cause short-term effects, such as diarrhea, cramps, nausea, headaches, or other symptoms.

Turbidity: Can interfere with disinfection and provide a medium for microbial growth. Turbidity may indicate the presence of disease causing organisms. These organisms include bacteria, viruses, and parasites that can cause symptoms such as nausea, cramps, diarrhea, and associated headaches.

Cryptosporidium: A parasite that enters lakes and rivers through sewage and animal waste. It causes cryptosporidiosis, a mild gastrointestinal disease. However, the disease can be severe or fatal for people with severely weakened immune systems.

Giardia lamblia: A parasite that enters lakes and rivers through sewage and animal waste. It causes gastrointestinal illness (e.g. diarrhea, vomiting, cramps).

Alpha emitters: Certain minerals are radioactive and may emit a form of radiation known as alpha radiation. Some people who drink water containing alpha emitters in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Beta/photon emitters: Certain minerals are radioactive and may emit forms of radiation known as photons and beta radiation. Some people who drink water containing beta and photon emitters in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Combined Radium 226/228: Some people who drink water containing radium 226 or 228 in excess of EPA's standard over many years may have an increased risk of getting cancer.
Radon gas can dissolve and accumulate in underground water sources, such as wells, and in the air in your home. Breathing radon can cause lung cancer. Drinking water containing radon presents a risk of developing cancer. Radon in air is more dangerous than radon in water.

Arsenic: drinking water containing arsenic in excess of EPA's standard over many years could experience skin damage or problems with their circulatory system, and may have an increased risk of getting cancer.

Flouride: Many communities add fluoride to their drinking water to promote dental health. Each community makes its own decision about whether or not to add fluoride. EPA has set an enforceable drinking water standard for fluoride of 4 mg/L (some people who drink water containing fluoride in excess of this level over many years could get bone disease, including pain and tenderness of the bones). EPA has also set a secondary fluoride standard of 2 mg/L to protect against dental fluorosis. Dental fluorosis, in its moderate or severe forms, may result in a brown staining and/or pitting of the permanent teeth. This problem occurs only in developing teeth, before they erupt from the gums. Children under nine should not drink water that has more than 2 mg/L of fluoride.

Lead: typically leaches into water from plumbing in older buildings. Lead pipes and plumbing fittings have been banned since August 1998. Children and pregnant women are most susceptible to lead health risks.

MTBE: is a fuel additive, commonly used in the United States to reduce carbon monoxide and ozone levels caused by auto emissions. Due to its widespread use, reports of MTBE detections in the nation's ground and surface water supplies are increasing. The Office of Water and other EPA offices are working with a panel of leading experts to focus on issues posed by the continued use of MTBE and other oxygenates in gasoline. EPA is currently studying the implications of setting a drinking water standard for MTBE.Drinking water, including bottled water, may reasonably be expected to contain at least small amounts of some contaminants.

Tap water may pose other risks. Hard water(such as my own here at my own home) contains iron, magnesium, or nitrates. But the MAJOR cause for concern is Chlorine and it's ill effects to humans...could this also be related to cancer in canines? I venture to guess it is highly probable!

This excerpt is from the website Pure Earth "The U.S. General Accounting Office reports that there are serious deficiencies in water treatment plants in 75% of the states. More than 120 million people (about 50% of the population) may get unsafe water according to a study conducted by the Natural Resources Defense Council. U.S. Health Officials estimate 900,000 people each year become ill - and possibly 900 die - from waterborne disease. The General Accounting Office estimates 66% of Safe Drinking Water Act violations are not reported. The contamination of water is directly related to the degree of contamination of our environment. Rainwater flushes airborne pollution from the skies, and then washes over the land before running into the, rivers, aquifers, and lakes that supply our drinking water. Any and all chemicals generated by human activity can and will find their way into water supplies. The chemical element chlorine is a corrosive, poisonous, greenish-yellow gas that has a suffocating odor and is 2 1/2 times heavier than air. Chlorine belongs to the group of elements called halogens. The halogens combine with metals to form compounds called halides. Chlorine is manufactured commercially by running an electric current through salt water. This process produces free chlorine, hydrogen, and sodium hydroxide. Chlorine is changed to its liquid form by compressing the gas, the resulting liquid is then shipped. Liquid chlorine is mixed into drinking water and swimming pools to destroy bacteria.

Until recently, concerns about drinking water focused on eliminating pathogens. The chlorine used to reduce the risk of infectious disease may account for a substantial portion of the cancer risk associated with drinking water. Chlorination of drinking water was a major factor in the reduction in the mortality rates associated with waterborne pathogens. The use of chlorine was believed to be safe. This view is evident in an article, which appeared on the back page of the New York Times. The report stated that with the use of chlorine, "Any municipal water supply can be made as pure as mountain spring water. Chlorination destroys all animal and microbial life, leaving no trace of itself afterwards". This statement reflected opinion accepted until recent years when halogenated organic compounds, such as chloroform, were identified in chlorinated drinking water supplies. Recent surveys show that these compounds are common in water supplies throughout the United States. These concerns about cancer risks associated with chemical contamination from chlorination by-products have resulted in numerous epidemiological studies. These studies generally support the notion that by-products of chlorination are associated with increased cancer risks. Chlorine is used to combat microbial contamination, but it can react with organic matter in the water and form dangerous, carcinogenic Trihalomethanes. According to Dr. Joseph M. Price, MD, in Moseby's Medical Dictionary, "Chlorine is the greatest crippler and killer of modern times. It is an insidious poison".

There are many reasons to concern ourselves with our water supply. But what can we do to cost effectively bringing good clean water to my glass and my dog's bowl after a hard day of hunting the upland country? Drinking bottled purified water is a possibility but economically and environmentally speaking it is not the best option for most. I decided to investigate the do-it-yourself filters available for sale at most home goods retailers everywhere. After much research I chose a PURwater filter. As advertised, it will remove 99% of contaminants possible from a stand alone filter system. Fortunately, Chlorine will dissipate from standing water in about 24 hours. I bought a jug type filter so that should work effectively for removing both the chlorine as well as removing heavy metals, cyst cultures, and organic/inorganic bacteria by the action of it's carbon filter. I will caution, some municipalities in this country are no longer using traditional chlorine. Instead they are using Chlorimine which does NOT dissipate from standing water like chlorine. Chlorimine is basically chlorine mixed with ammonia. I suggest you investigate what your city or town uses immediately. Chlorimine is an unproven alternative but is more cost effective for municipal water suppliers to use. During my research for this post I could find no definitive studies directly linking chlorimine to documented health issues. But with all synthetic chemical concoctions I would be VERY concerned.

May is Pet Cancer Awareness Month sponsored by PETCO Animal Supplies in partnership with the Morris Animal Foundation and Blue Buffalo Dog Food. I am not a Scientist, a Vet, or Medical Professional. I'm just a humble gun dog guy and passionate outdoorsman who cares greatly about our four legged friends. What I do know is 50% of all dogs die from some type of cancer related issue in this country every year. Could we speculate it is from abnormalities in our drinking water? After first investigating the possibilities, it is with great reason why I wrote this post. I feel it is highly possible given the data provided. If half of our dogs die from cancer, the great unknown is how many of those dogs develop cancer due directly to the very water they drink? I urge each of you to consider the quality of water you are supplying your dog. As always, preventative measures early on could equal less trips to the vet later.

I realize in this economic downturn priorities to survive are first and foremost. If you do choose to give a dog a home please try to provide him or her with with the best chances to live a long and happy life. Remember this...dogs where once wild creatures and only domesticated by early man to help provide an advantage when hunting for tribal food stores. In turn, canine prowess proliferated our human race by helping our forefathers harvest sustenance in times of need. It is our turn to repay their favor.

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

Dog Food Rating Formula

Recently, I came across a grassroots piece of research on dog food. It is the first and foremost ever "dog food rating formula" based solely on quantitative metrics. I was overwhelmed with excitement. Someone had finally taken the initiative to put ingredient ranking to paper and conceptualize a system of scoring. It is truly a step in the right direction to realistically rate overall dog food quality.

It is very obvious that this women has devoted considerable time developing her food rating formula. I applaud her for her efforts and support the future development of such systems. Her name is Sarah Irick. Her methodology and commitment to this formula is unbelievable. She should be honored for such an achievement. I hope she doesn't mind but I am posting her quotations as well as her formulaic breakout without asking permission first. We simply don't have time to waste getting this to more owners. I feel she would understand. As gun dog owners, we represent the last bastion of working dogs in this world. Our dogs are bred not only as loving companions, but to fulfill their genetic code brought on by ancient man who first domesticated wild dogs to help them hunt. The addition of the domesticated dog to the human hunting pack indeed contributed, and possibly catalyzed, the perpetual evolution of humanity as a whole. If you care about your dog, this is truly an important piece of work! Thank you Sarah for your time and service to those who wish to proliferate canine healthy and welfare.

According to Sarah..."There are so many different types of dog food on the market and so many different opinions about the best ingredients, manufacturing processes, supplements, etc that choosing the best food for your dog is definitely a challenge. Below you'll find a system that will help you 'rate' or evaluate, any dog food by taking a close look at it's ingredients, and doing a few simple calculations. It will help you find the best food for your dogs' individual needs. So relax, the confusion ends here! If only there was a way to do a basic dog food analysis, taking into account the dog food ingredients over many different types of dog food. Preferably one that doesn't require a degree math or science! Well, actually there is such a way of making dog food comparisons - and I'm about to show you exactly how to do it!

Start with a grade of 100 points, then …

For every listing of "by-product", subtract 10 points

For every non-specific animal source ("meat" or "poultry", meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

For every grain "mill run" or non-specific grain source subtract 5 points. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. "ground brown rice", "brewer's rice", "rice flour" are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points

If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points

If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points

If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn't allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

If it contains salt, subtract 1 point


Extra Credit(add to score)...

If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points

If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

If the food contains probiotics(bacteria cultures), add 3 points

If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

If the food contains barley, add 2 points

If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count "chicken" and "chicken meal" as only one protein source, but "chicken" and "fish" as 2 different sources), add 1 point

If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D
69 & Below = F

Well, although this may sound a little tricky, I promise that once you've analyzed a couple of different varieties of food, you'll be able to make some very useful dog food comparisons.
Then you'll be in a much better position to make dog food comparisons and be sure that you're giving your precious pup the very best, safest, healthiest and appropriate dog food.

Here is a list of popular dog food brands and how they rated out using her system...
Authority Harvest Baked / Score 116 A+
Bil-Jac Select / Score 68 F
Blue Buffalo Chicken & Brown Rice/ Score 106 A+
Canidae / Score 112 A+
Chicken Soup Senior / Score 115 A+
Diamond Maintenance / Score 64 F
Diamond Lamb Meal & Rice / Score 92 B
Diamond Large Breed 60+ Formula / Score 99 A
Dick Van Patten's Natural Balance Ultra Premium / Score 122 A+
Dick Van Patten's Duck and Potato / Score 106 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic / Score 119 A+
Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken / Score 114 A+
Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy / Score 94 A
Eagle Pack Natural / Score 94 A
Eukanuba Large Breed Adult / Score 83 C
Eukanuba Natural Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Hund-n-Flocken Adult Dog (lamb) by Solid Gold / Score 93 A
Iams Lamb Meal & Rice Formula Premium / Score 73 D
Iams Large Breed / Score 83 C
Innova Dog / Score 114 A+
Innova Evo / Score 114 A+
Natural Balance Duck and Potato / Score 114 A+
Nutrisource Lamb and Rice / Score 87 B
Pedigree Adult Complete / Score 14 F
Pet Gold Adult with Lamb & Rice / Score 23 F
Pro Plan Natural SElects Turkey & Barley / Score 103 A+
Purina Beneful / Score 17 F
Royal Canin Bulldog / Score 100 A+
Royal Canin Natural Blend Adult / Score 106 A+
Sensible Choice Chicken and Rice / Score 97 A
Science Diet Advanced Protein Senior 7+ / Score 63 F
Science Diet chicken adult maintenance / Score 45 F
Science Diet for Large Breed Puppies / Score 69 F
Timberwolf Organics Lamb and Venison / Score 136 A+
Wellness Super5 Mix Chicken / Score 110 A+
Wolfking Adult Dog (Bison) by Solid Gold / Score 97 A

Without question Sarah has it down to pure, blue collar science. Her metric rating system is well thought out and concise. I hope this helps breakdown what foods are beneficial and those that lack what your dog needs to not only perform better in the field but to live a long and happy life.

Best of luck out there. -Mark

Performance Dog Foods

Gun dogs were bred for generations to hunt a variety of wild game in the harshest of environments. They are canine athletes specialized by genetics to produce results in the field. Yours might be a Blue Tick Coonhound that patrols the night time woods treeing masked bandits. Or maybe you own a versatile Drahthaar that retrieves mallards from a marsh in the morning and then scouts the uplands for pheasants that afternoon. The bottom line is, all sporting breeds need quality food to fuel their inner hunting engine. These days there are many quality foods available from a wide selection of reputable manufacturers to help your dog perform to their optimum level. The gun dog owner needs to know what to look for in the ingredients to best fit his or her dogs needs.

The Guaranteed Analysis: The "GA" is information listed on every bag of food made by every company. The GA shows the minimum levels of crude protein and fat and the maximum levels of fiber and water. The term "crude" might ring the false alarm to some. Rest assured, it does NOT refer to the quality of the nutrient but to the specific method of testing. Below is an example of a GA.

Upon further inspection of this GA we can derive that this dry dog food has 90% dry matter. We find this by taking the amount of moisture(10% in this case) and subtracting from 100%. We can then take the 26% protein and divide that by the 90%. Now we find the protein level to be almost 29% of dry matter. Ok? Here's where it helps to bring a calculator into the feed store...The more moisture the dry food contains the LESS nutritious dry matter there is in the food. This will hit you in your wallet as you will need to buy more, feed more, as well as your dog eat more to derive more nutrients. BEWARE of high moisture % content dry kibble food. This is a case when "more" is not always better!

Protein and Fat are your guns dog's core fuel ingredients. Protein for their supply of amino acids to build and maintain strong muscles, cartilage, ligaments, and tendons. Unused protein is also stored as fat for later use. Fat content for their daily energy supply as well as delivering building blocks for healthy skin and hair. Ok so far? Here is where is gets a little more tricky to properly supply your hunting partner with a quality food. The "digestibility" of protein and fat can vary widely depending on what sources these nutrients come from. Shown below is an Ingredients List.

All dog foods list their ingredients in order of weight. It is by far the best way for you, the knowledgeable consumer, to determine the overall quality of the food you are choosing for your gun dog. Read the entire list carefully. Some manufacturers have a trick of breaking up similar or like ingredients with different jargon or slightly different "but same" throughout the list as weights decrease. If you find yourself repeating the same word found in different ingredients you have now just deciphered the loop hole in listing ingredients by weight! Even though the first ingredient is listed as say chicken, keep on reading down the list. Group all the like ingredients together to figure out what REALLY is the primary ingredient. Now comes the even harder part. How do you determine what ingredients are the most digestible? Why is digestibility important? The easier your dog's internal systems can extract nutrients the better. They eat and absorb as much as possible in a very short window of opportunity. The better the ingredients, the more your dog absorbs before he or she removes it(aka take a poop!). Keep in mind a dog's digestive tract is not like a humans. 4-8 hours and they are processing everything. Humans on the other hand process complete from 8 hours to upwards of 4 days! There is not much time in a dog life for nutrient absorption so what they eat best be great! Until the pet food industry begins to list digestibility of ingredients, the only way is to "guesstimate" in the order in which they they appear and then make a very unscientific calculation. If the first ingredient is chicken, lamb, venison, duck, or any other whole or "meal" (meal is dehydrated protein meat source and an excellent source of highly concentrated and highly digestable protein), these are the heaviest by ingredient weight as well as the best sources of highly digestibility, quality protein. By-product or other meat based by-products are average. Remember to add up like sources on the ingredients list both positively and negatively. Also keep in mind carbohydrate sources and the quality/digestibility of them as well. For example a higher amount of brewer's rice(small fragments of rice kernels that have been separated from large kernels of milled rice) are a better source of carbo's than ground corn. Carbo's are also a secondary source of energy so finding a food with quality starches, sugars, and fiber sources not only help your energy level for your dog but also aid in digestion and intestinal fortitude.

The manufacturer has also included Feeding Instructions on every bag. I highly suggest you only use these as rough guidelines. Every dog is different and possess a different metabolism, activity level, and working environmental(such as temperature). Also take into account the dog's breed, age, and special needs. Use your common sense when it comes to following these feeding guidelines. Adjust as needed or you may end up with a very obese or very undernourished dog. Although activity level is the primary measure for concern, temperature can play a major role in the amount of energy your dog consumes during an average hunt. The rule of thumb is for every 10 degree drop in temperature(below normal average temp) figure an average 6% increase in caloric intake your dog needs to keep the fire in his engine hot and running hard. You must stoke the fire hotter during those cold December hunts when the afternoon wind chill drops off and snow flurries fill the air.

These days buzz words and marketing hoopla abound in the dog food industry. Any manufacturer that claims their product is "complete", "balanced", "100% nutritious", must resort to proving this statement on their bags. Look for the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) stamp to constitute this. Also, many dog food manufacturers claim and label bags as "premium" or "super premium". I just saw two competing brands advertising with one saying "super premium" and the other for "ultra premium". The truth be know, products labeled as premium, gourmet, super this, or ultra that, are not required to contain any different or higher quality ingredients , nor are they held to any higher standards than any other dog food brand. Strange? Yes and I agree. Beware of marketing ploys as they run rampant in the dog food business! Look at the stuff inside. That's what really counts when you and your dog need that extra mojo to push up that canyon wall for chukars or trudge that last sorghum break for ringnecks. Don't get caught up in the flashy packaging and multimillion dollar ad campaigns! It won't help your dog out in the backcountry. As the master of a canine athlete you owe it to your dog(s) to supply them with premium food. Most performance dog foods on the market today range from 28% protein/18% fat mix to a 30%/20% mix. Some foods however separate themselves from the pack by using the highest quality ingredients possible. Check them out and study them carefully!

A couple key ingredients that might help your gun dog recover quicker as well as help in the fight against aching joints and soreness is Chondriotin and Glucosumine. Many of the finer food brands add these nutrients into their foods but they are also available as supplements in either tablet or liquid form. Next time you are into see your Vet ask about how much of these your dog should receive as part of his daily allowance. They are a huge help for older dogs and those who run hard day in and day out for quicker recovery during the season.

The next time you are at the feed store take the time to investigate further the many great foods that are available to better help your faithful hunting companion fit and ready for the next hunt.

Best of luck out there, -Mark

E-Collar Tips

Many potentially great bird dogs have been ruined by an overeager owner that misguidingly introduces an e-collar into their dog's training regiment. I strongly advise any new user to put in serious time researching and studying the various disciplines from noted professionals before strapping an e-collar on to your own dog for the first time. This is serious business and one that should not be taken lightly. There are a tremendous amount of benefits from adding the e-collar but if steps to mastery are construed or overlooked it is possible to do more harm than good. These are just a few tips that I have picked up along the way which consistently work for me, my own dogs, and others I have helped train using an e-collar.

First and foremost, read the entire manual of whatever brand and model you have chosen. I know it sounds juvenile but the e-collar is not some mundane household appliance! Make sure you know all the functions, various setting, and level adjustments. More harm then good can come to your dog if you are not proficient yourself in it's power!

The dog must first master all verbal commands before switching him to an e-collar. E-collars are NOT a replacement for the check cord and basic obedience training. Ask yourself and be brutally honest, "Does my dog already respond 100% of the time to Here, Whoa, Sit, Stay, etc? If you answered NO, stop right here and get refocused on mastering the basics using just a check cord.

Before even turning the collar on, take about 2 weeks to condition your dog to the collar itself. Incorporate the wearing of e-collar with his fun play time. By the end of 2 weeks he hopefully is associating the e-collar with fun. If you notice your dog getting excited and wagging uncontrollably when he sees you pick up the collar, you are headed down the right path! Remember, 2 weeks is just an estimate. This time could be shorter or longer depending on the dog. Read your dog by using your best judgement and be patient.

You and your dog are now ready to turn the collar on. This begins with both e-collar AND check cord in place. The association must be made that the e-collar pressure will now be replacing his cord pressure.

Remember, Stay consistent, keep it simple, and always very positive(your own attitude must always be positive)

Finding the proper stimulation level is a critical phase in your switch from long check cord to e-collar. First, start at the lowest nick setting during a basic obedience drill. I use the "Here" command to begin. Something like this. Call him "Here" (or whatever word you use for your return command) Even if he comes, act quickly and apply only cord pressure towards you. This will reinforce is foundation of "Here" with cord pressure he has mastered in his prior basic obediance. Repeat this a few times. Then call "Here" push nick button "Here" all while applying cord pressure towards you. Slowly move up in level until you see your dog respond with either a swallow, tongue out, drop his shoulders, while reacting to the command properly. Do not go any higher in level.

For example my nick setting for my pointer during his initial training was reached at level 4. We determined this is the lowest level of pressure he needed to elicit a physical response

Again, be patient and understanding. There is a lot of mental stress at this point. Think baby steps! On day 1 only practice the check cord/e-collar conditioning pressure together a few times. I recommend 3-4 times only. ALWAYS reward with verbal praise and a nice rub on the shoulder!

Going forward, the following weeks should be taken very slowly. Keep reinforcing e-collar/check cord pressure and slowly introduce other verbal commands to the "Command" nick "Command" routine...but only at your dog's pace, not your own! The minute interest and attention is lost, stop and start play time.

There will be tough days where he is just not into it. Stop and play. Come back to it later. Again be patient. Give him extra shoulder rubs and more positive "Good Boy!" when a job is well done.

Personally, I very rarely use the continuous stimulation button. Or as I call it "the heater". I only use it very sparingly and never in the first few days during the introduction phase. The only time I ever find myself reaching for the heater is when my dog's own instincts override his training. This can be caused by overwhelming distractions such as when his "chase" instinct kicks in. Normally this is used only when a "No" nick "No" command fails to stop the action. I then will apply "No" Continuous "No". Used sparingly it is very sharp reminder to your dog or puts himself in danger, like running across a road!

My best experience is with SportDog model collars. SportDog brand is unique in the fact that their collars also incorporate a "tone" function. The tone is simply a non shock button that sends an on command beep to the collar, thus replacing the need for a whistle blow. I have found this one function of the collar to be used during the majority of my dog's later training where the "nick" is slowly replaced by the "tone"(but only after mastering the verbal/nick process). Again, this was another long conditioning process.

I can not strongly reiterate enough, take everything extremely slow. If you find yourself or your dog becoming overwhelmed. Take a break. Have fun and KEEP IT SIMPLE.

I hope you have found a couple helpful tips. These should not take the place of the research and studying you have done from the hundreds of great professional trainers and e-collar training manuals available.

Have fun out there. -Mark

Final Pre-Season Prep

For overanxious Wisconsin upland hunters, pheasant season will open on October 17. Time is of the essence. Final preparations for the season can not to be procrastinated any longer.

The spring and summer months have been for keeping my pointer, Dewey, in shape with consistent workouts and training. I have kept my own shooting eye tuned with clays pigeons. If you have left your faithful four legged hunting companion collecting dust over the past few months, do not expect your dog to work any miracles come opening day. As the saying goes...a marathon runner does not just show up on the day of the race ready to win! For Dewey and I, we are both chomping at the proverbial bit to get out on some wild action. In the meantime, we are laying the last pieces of groundwork before opening day.

For us this means training and workouts now take a back seat to the real deal. Starting in early October, we switch gears and begin earnestly scouting the public hunting grounds in southern Wisconsin, mostly around our home county of Jefferson. New patterns of growth have emerged and as we navigate amongst the fields, copious mental notes are made of potential bird holding cover. We focus our efforts, skirting field borders and cover breaks while keying on possible pheasant food sources(such as old sunflower plots as shown in this image) scattered throughout. Working wind direction to better help the dog key up his scent coning ability as we enter likely looking terrain will help us quickly adapt to future scenarios. Along the way if you find pheasants in concentrated areas make sure not to over work those patches the following days. It is best to keep as much pressure off those new found ring neck haunts until the opening bell tolls. No need to make those wily wild roosters anymore wily!

Along with field scouting, Dewey's diet and rations are switched in preparation of the longer days of work in increasingly colder conditions. During the warm off season months he is fed 2 meals a day(morning and night) 1 cup each of kibble moistened with warm water, a shot of vitamin gravy, and a teaspoon of a omega-3 & 6 fatty acid liquid supplement. Keeping at his ideal 65lbs, this warm weather ration coupled with his daily workouts have kept him lean and muscular. Come early October we switch to a performance 30/20 food, a higher protein and fat containing kibble. It is also loaded with natural sources of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate to help maintain healthy joints and mobility. In addition, it is loaded with heaps of other great nutrients he needs to recover from long hunts and make ready for the next. As the dog hunts more and the days get colder they need this boost in protein intake to maintain their own energy level. I increase his ration to 3 cups total divided by 2 meals. These daily rations of 30/20 performance food moistened with warm water, a shot of vitamin gravy, and a teaspoon of omega supplement will be fed to him until early spring then switch back to a normal 26/12 food. Treats should also be kept to those loaded with the nutrients your dog will need as he or she burns more quickly through calories. Find one that you and your dog believe in and stick to a consistent regiment.

Nothing can put you and your dog on the sidelines faster then damage to his pads. Training and scouting the same type cover you will eventually hunt will not only help to toughen up his pads but make is undercarriage ready for the punishment high grass, thorns, and corn stalks can deliver. Get him working through the thick and nasty stuff will only help his performance as well as his confidence and endurance.

I highly recommend taking your dog into the veterinarian for a complete physical this time of year. Just like any athlete, a check up before the season can make all the difference come game time. Remember to take in fecal samples to check for worms and/or bacteria. At this time also check your own field First-Aid kit. Make sure all the essentials are in stock to cover any type of mishap you and your dog may encounter while miles from professional help. Things to be never without in the field are tweezers/hemostats, alcohol swabs, nonstick gauze pads, and elastic bandages. It may also help to have a small bottle of dog eye wash to rinse out foreign debris from seeds plants and ragweed.

The tailgate check at the end of every hunt is something I highly recommend. Give your dog a good once over before heading him into the box. Rub your hand across his body checking for ticks, scraps, burs, cuts, or sore spots. Take a close look at his eyes, ears, and pads. He will thank you for it if you find a bothersome issue before it becomes a major problem for him!

I wish all of you the best of luck this pheasant season. Stay safe and have fun.