Fighting Fleas, Ticks & Worms

The frozen tundra of winter has quickly giving up its frigid grasp. Jaybirds are chirping at daybreak and squadrons of geese are once again returning to their Canadian roots. Up here in the north country spring has definitely sprung. With the annual thaw-out also comes an influx of harmful micro critters that spawn and proliferate quickly as earthly temperatures increase. Time is now to mount an offensive and prepare for battle. In this post we will discuss how preventive medications can ward off fleas, ticks, and worms on or in your dog and hopefully prevent an expensive trip to the vets office this spring. Maybe you've heard brands like Frontline, Heartguard, Advantix, Interceptor, K9 Advantage, Sentinel and asked; what are these medications and what do they do? A good question probably followed quickly by another good question; which one is best for my dog? Let's take a walk down the flea, tick, and worm medication aisle at our virtual dog pharmacy. We'll take it one at a time and let you confidently decide which might just be the best fit for your trusty four legged hunting companion. Please keep in mind we are looking at a variety of different preventatives. Some are flea and tick only and a few are prescription worms medication that include a flea or tick formula. Some are topical(applied to skin) while others are oral(tablet form). Please keep it all in mind while reading the following post. Now lets begin...

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Frontline Plus
Frontline Plus is a monthly topical flea and tick preventative. Frontline Plus kills 100% of adult fleas on your dog within 18 hours and 100% of all ticks within 48 hours. Frontline Plus contains an insect growth regulator, S-methoprene, which kills flea eggs and larvae. It’s effective against all stages of the brown dog tick, the American dog tick, the lone star tick and the deer tick (the major carrier of Lyme disease). (3 Pack = 3 doses which lasts 3 months.)

Benefits
•Kills all existing fleas on your pet within 18 hours
•Each application provides a full month of protection
•Great for pets that swim since it's waterproof
• Kills ticks

How it works: Frontline Plus contains fipronil, a broad-spectrum insecticide and slow-acting poison that disrupts the central nervous system of fleas and ticks and S-Methoprene, an insect growth regulator that kills flea eggs and larvae. The active ingredients are stored in the sebaceous glands and are wicked out of the hair follicles and continuously re-applied to the coat for long-lasting, waterproof protection. Cautions: Your pet may experience some temporary irritation at the site of application. If signs persist or become more severe within a few days of application, consult your veterinarian immediately.

Availability: Frontline Plus is a non-prescription (over the counter) product.

How this product should be used:Use Frontline Plus for Dogs (fipronil 9.8% and S-methoprene 8.8%) on dogs and puppies 8 weeks or older. Frontline Plus for Dogs is available as 0.67 ml applicators for use on dogs and puppies up to 22 lbs, 1.34 ml applicators for dogs 23-44 lbs, 2.68 ml applicators for dogs 45-88 lbs and 4.02 ml applicators for dogs 89-132 lbs. Wait 24 hours to fully dry before swimming or bathing. Do not reapply for 30 days. Place the applicator tip through the animal's hair to the skin level between the shoulder blades. Apply the entire contents of the applicator in a single spot to the animal's skin. Use only one applicator per treatment.

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Avantage Multi
Advantage Multi is a once a month topical application that contains a combination of the insecticide (imidacloprid) and the parasiticide (moxidectin). Advantage Multi for Dogs is used for the prevention of heartworm and the treatment and control of flea infestations, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms.

Benefits:
•Prevents heartworms, roundworms, hookworms in dogs and cats as well as whipworms in dogs and ear mites in cats
•Easy, once a month, application
•Canine customers often purchase Preventic collars (sold separately) for tick protection

How it works: The active ingredient moxidectin is used for the prevention and control of heartworms and intestinal worms by disrupting nerve transmission resulting in the paralysis and death of the parasite. The active ingredient imidacloprid, acts on the nervous system of the flea to cause paralysis and subsequent death.

Availibility: Veterinarian Prescription Only

How should this medication be used: Advantage Multi is applied topically to the skin. It is not given by mouth. Follow the manufacturer's directions for application. Do not apply to irritated skin. Apply each dose once a month, every 30 days. If you do not understand the directions, or if you have difficulty applying the medication, contact your pharmacist or veterinarian.

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K9 Advantix
K9 Advantix (imidacloprid + permethrin) is a convenient monthly preventative for dogs that both repels and kills fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes. Because it repels and kills, K9 Advantix offers a more comprehensive protection against fleas & ticks in comparison to other veterinarian-recommended brands. K9 Advantix stops biting fleas within three to five minutes and kills 98-100 percent within 12 hours. (4 Pack = 4 doses which lasts 4 months.) K9 Advantix is not for use on cats.

Benefits:
•Kills & repels fleas, ticks, & mosquitoes
•Stops fleas from biting your pet in 3-5 minutes providing fast relief
•Kills adult fleas within 12 hours
•Kills flea larvae in under 20 minutes
•Repels disease-carrying mosquitoes before they bite
•Stops ticks from attaching and reduces risk of Lyme Disease & tickborne diseases
•Still works after your pet swims or is bathed

How it works: K9 Advantix is for use on dogs and puppies 7 weeks of age and older only. It is used for the topical prevention and treatment of fleas, mosquitoes and ticks including deer ticks (the major carrier of Lyme disease), American dog ticks, Brown dog ticks and lone star ticks. K-9 Advantix kills and repels fleas, ticks and mosquitoes.

Availability: K9 Advantix is a non-prescription (OTC) product available as applicators for dogs 1-10 lbs (Green), 11-20 lbs (Teal), 21-55 lbs (Red), and 55 lbs and over (Blue).

How this medication should be used: For use only on dogs. Do not use on cats or on other animals. Part the hair on the dog's back, between the shoulder blades, until the skin is visible. For dogs up to 20 lbs, apply the entire contents of the tube to this one spot. For dogs 21 lbs and over, apply the contents of the applicator tube to the skin at 3 or 4 spots on the top of the back from the shoulder to the base of the tail. If the household has cats or other animals, separate from the treated dog for about an hour until the product is thoroughly dry.

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Sentinel
What is Sentinel? Sentinel is the only monthly oral preventive that guards against heartworms, adult roundworms, adult hookworms, whipworms, and prevents the development of flea eggs.

Benefits:
•Comes in palatable flavored tabs
•Easy to administer just once a month

How it works: Milbemycin oxime eliminates the tissue stage of heartworm larvae and the adult stage of hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm infestations. Lufenuron, the other active ingredient, is an insect development inhibitor that breaks the flea life cycle by inhibiting egg development. Lufenuron prevents most flea eggs from hatching or maturing into adults and thus prevents and controls flea populations by breaking the life cycle.
Sentinel may be given along with Capstar, which treats flea infestation(adult fleas).

Availability: Veterinarian Presciption Only

How should this medication be given: Give Sentinel exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. The usual dose of Sentinel for dogs 2 to 10 pounds is 2.3mg/46mg, 11 to 25 pounds is 5.75mg/115mg, 26 to 50 pounds is 11.5mg/230mg and 51 to 100 pounds is 23mg/460mg given once a month year round. For dogs over 100 pounds give the appropriate combination of tablets. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Sentinel for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Sentinel at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.

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Interceptor
What is Interceptor? Interceptor Flavor Tabs are a palatable once-a-month tablet that prevents heartworm disease, controls adult hookworms, and removes and controls adult roundworms and whipworm infections.

Benefits:
•Given once a month
•Easy to administer
•Broad spectrum activity

Availibility: Veterinarian Prescription Only

How it works: Interceptor Flavor Tabs eliminate the tissue stage of heartworm larvae and the adult stage of hookworm, roundworm, and whipworm infestations. The anthelmintic activity (destroying parasitic worms) of the active ingredient milbemycin oxime is believed to be a result of interfering with the invertebrates neurotransmission. Cautions: Side effects of Interceptor are rare, but some animals may show signs of depression, drowsiness, vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, hypersalivation, seizures, and weakness. If these or other symptoms develop contact your veterinarian. Since humans can contract hookworm and roundworm from animals, you should maintain good personal hygiene. To prevent reinfection, cleaning up stool daily is recommended. Don't give your pet Interceptor if you are already administering another heartworm .


How should this medication be given: Give Interceptor exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Interceptor for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Interceptor at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.
What happens if I miss giving a dose: Give the missed dose as soon as you remember. Do not give a double dose of the medication.

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HeartGuard Plus
What is Heartgard Plus?Heartgard Plus is a real-beef chewable tablet for dogs that provides protection against heartworms, and treats and controls roundworms and hookworms.

Benefits:
•Considered the most tasty heartworm chewable tablet
•Effectively controls heartworms, roundworms & hookworms
•Only given once a month

How it works: Heartgard Plus contains ivermectin, a broad-spectrum antiparasitic medication used to prevent heartworms. Heartgard Plus also contains Pyrantel Pamoate, an anthelminthic, used to prevent roundworms and hookworms.

Availibility: Veterinarian Precription Only

How should this medication be given: Give Heartgard Plus exactly as directed by the veterinarian. If you do not understand the directions ask the pharmacist or veterinarian to explain them to you. Heartgard Plus chewable tablets must be chewed. They should not be swallowed whole. Use with caution in collies. Heartworm testing should be performed prior to the start of prevention therapy. If the animal is off Heartgard Plus for 6 months or less, start the medication and test after 6 months since microfilaria, that take 6 months to mature, will result in a positive test result. Store Heartgard Plus at room temperature. Do not remove the tablet from its wrapper until ready to give the medicine. Keep this medication away from children and pets.

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This is indeed a ton of information on the latest heartworm, flea, and/or tick medication. Please keep in mind only prescription medications such as Sentinel, Heartguard, and Interceptor can prevent heartworm. I urge everybody to prepare their dogs for the spring onslaught of harmful critters today. Their is also a Lyme tick vaccine now available. We will post a comprehensive look into to this very soon so stay tuned to our blog! We also highly recommend switching to a permethrin based flea and tick shampoo during the warmer months to also help ward off those harmful critters even more. IA bimonthly bath of flea and tick over the counter shampoo will do wonders to help in the battle!

If you are wondering what I personally recommend here it is...
I give a monthly dose to Dewey(3.5 y.o. pointer) of Sentinel for flea and worms every month, year round. He is the first dog I have owed who is also on the Lyme tick vaccine with annual boosters and has been since 4 months old. From spring to late fall he gets a bath every 2 weeks with Perfect Coat Flea & Tick shampoo. I religiously go over him for ticks during our tailgate checks at the end of each workout or hunt. I also keep a "flea comb" in my truck and run it over him quickly before kenneling up and heading home. A flea comb might just be the best $0.99 you ever spend on your dog! They are available at most pet stores and not only work to remove crawling fleas but deer ticks as well. This is just what has worked for us but keep in mind Dewey is not a water dog, in fact, he hates water over ankle deep. He operates mostly in the northern midwest. He is a short hair and mostly white so it is easily to spot micro critters and his owner(i.e me) is nuts about thorough tailgate checks. Whiping a dog down and the flea comb mentioned prior is a valuable pactice in helping prevent issues without the aid of preventative medications...but not to replace those medications!

As always, being proactive now could save you a costly trip to the vet later.

Best of luck to each of you out there!

-Mark Northup

Is Corn Bad?

Corn on the cob is as American as apple pie. If you believe written history, gracious Native Americans first introduced harvested corn to Pilgrims at the first Thanksgiving dinner. For generations since, corn crops have been cultivated by hard working American farmers across this country's heartland. By the turn of the 20th century corn became a substantial source of agricultural wealth throughout the United States. As most will agree, corn is warm and buttery, making life feel good and wholesome as it passes across our lips. Ironically, we derive more nutritional value by eating just one slice of your grandmother's cinnamon coated apple pie recipe than we do by downing ten ears of corn!

Proof: Corn Free Diet = A Healthy, Happy Hunting Partner!

Like those of us who walk upright, our four legged hunting partners find the nutritional value of corn equally unrewarding and anything but beneficial to their diet. So the question remains...why do some dog food companies include corn or corn variations as their main ingredient? I will tell you why. Because some dog food companies in this country are cheap and corn is the cheapest "real" ingredient available. More so, your dogs overall health is inconsequential and unrelated to their return on investment..a.k.a the corporate mantra called ROI. Sad as it is but very true.

Is corn bad for dogs? The answer is: not really...BUT it doesn't do much good either and can possibly cause further health issues then just nutritional deficiency

Factoid: whole corn has a natural cased cellulose shell. Left as a whole kernel, corn is indigestible. Any human who has taken a look at their own waste the morning after after eating an ear of corn for dinner would completely agree. Basically, the cellulose shell creates a wall blocking all the nutrients "inside" the shell from becoming digested. The process of mashing and dehydrating corn down to "meal" or "ground" only changes it's appearance, not it's composition. It should also be pointed out that corn is directly related to many forms of allergens in sensitive dogs. Breeds such as boxers, pointers, labs, and bulldogs are more highly probable candidates for corn related allergies. Allergic reactions can come in the form of excessive dry skin, chronic hot spots, chronic eye discharge, and far too many digestive irregularities to list here in this one post!

The filler called "cellulose" is still there and still equally indigestible. Yes, the inside portion of corn or the "meat" is a marginal source nutrients. Like other grains, corn is a carbohydrate and fiber food. Eighty-one percent of the solid material in the corn kernel consists of sugars, starch, and dietary fiber, including insoluble cellulose and non-carbohydrate lignin in the seed covering and soluble pectins and gums in the kernel(non nutritious ingredients related to the shell) Corn has a small amounts of vitamin A, the B vitamin folate, and vitamin C. Corn is a moderately good source of plant proteins, but zein (its major protein) is deficient in the essential amino acids lysine, cystine, and tryptophan. Corn is low in fat and its oils are composed primarily of unsaturated fatty acids.

When taken into account, the ratio of cellulose shell material to nutrients in the average gram of dog food "corn meal" results in a digestible ingredient that is extremely low. Hypothetically speaking, if milk was the only thing of true substance and a manufacturer ground up the plastic bottle holding the milk all together as one product and called it "milk meal" you have the working equivalent of what corn meal is to dog food. Sure the milk is there but the "filler" is the cellulose or "plastic" containment taking up 19%(as we learned prior) of the overall formula. Remember, those are ingredients that can not be converted into nutritional sources for any animal on this planet! For any kid who has ever swallowed one of those small green army guys(yes, I have!)...those things are not digestible! That is corn cellulose in a nut shell. No pun intended!

The bottomline is, low grade dog foods loaded with low grade grain products such a corn, wheat, and soy cheapen the product. A dog's intestinal tract and stomach process food 6 times quicker then humans. It is imperative to supply them with food that is able to be quickly digested. That only comes from high quality ingredients! In the end you will need to feed less if you invest in a high grade dog food! The result to your wallet and the benefit to you dog is spending almost the same for feeding him or her a top quality food!

I don't know about you guys but corn or corn in any form as a primary ingredient doesn't sound like something I want to feed my dog. I urge each of you to look at your dog food bags and read closely. There are some major dog food manufacturers out there who load top five ingredients with corn or corn related ingredients. Ask yourself...is this something I would want to feed myself as the majority of my own diet, let alone my dog's? Then go ahead and purchase a better food!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

The Holistic Gun Dog

Holistic and gun dog aren't words that flow together easily. To me, Holistic conjures up names like Sunbeam and Moonshadow practicing psychedelic medicine in black lit rooms while swaying to the beat of The Dead or The Doors. So how does the holistic dog food movement of today fit into our world of hard charging pointers, muddy retrievers, and filthy flushers? As twenty first century hunters and dog owners, we are residing in the dawn of canine enlightenment. Time is ripe to investigate the possibility of feeding our trusty hunting dog seriously top quality food. But first we must free our minds from all the marketing hype and worn thin standards that have been hand fed to us for years. There is a whole new world to be investigated out beyond the myths and legends of the past. Let's take a magic carpet ride as I try to shed some light on the holistic dog food movement happening around us. Be forewarned, the following facts will benefit the health and overall well being of your four legged hunting partner. As a positive consequence it will likely extended his or her life and athleticism in the field. All aboard the yellow submarine. Like Hendrix once asked, are you experienced?

It is long overdue that gun dog owners start seeing the big picture in HD clarity. 100% natural, holistic, and/or organic based food formulas have a place in our gun dog community. It is up to us as responsible owners and the leaders of the next generation to realize this. The fortune 500 have corner stoned the gun dog food mantra for decades. They have the big bucks to produce advertising campaigns that push the average hunter/owner towards their product. Glossy, full page ads show majestic breeds in well positioned action shots that adorn hunting magazine pages. Like all savvy marketing and advertising execs, pushing the right buttons when it comes to delivering the "live the lifestyle" or "be the brand" type advertising is why they get paid heaps of cash. This is not to say their product is not good but why is it that only a few major players are the standard of sporting dog foods? Is this solely because the longevity of their product and bank roll of the company? I was a huge advocate for many years of one particular brand. But then again, I am always a sucker for flashy advertising and openly admit to my own hardheadedness when it comes to change. For a long while it was difficult for me to finally accept the hard truth of what I was really feeding my dog and the truth was not good.

Proof of legitimacy is not found in today's advertising. Truth is only discovered by proven facts founded by quantitative science and then witnessing the results firsthand.

In the case of dog food, truth is found by analyzing Guarantee Analysis and Product Ingredients from two different companies in a side-by-side comparison. Company "A" is one of the mega players in the dog food industry and is a national leader in sales to the sporting dog consumer. They have been around for eons. A massive portion of their marketing and advertising budget is dedicated to proliferating their message to the hunting community. Company "B" is a relatively new, independently owned company who specializes in 100% natural, holistic ingredient food. They have never advertised in any hunting media nor have marketed within the hunting community. They are, however, strong proponents of all breeds and support all sporting dogs for their inherited working ability.

Before you go any further, I highly suggest you read my post titled Performance Dog Foods. It will instruct you how to properly read both types of listings. Please note: Guaranteed Analysis and Ingredient Listing below are for foods labelled and classified for retail sale only as a comparable chicken based "large breed adult formula" from both companies in question. Information has been taken directly from the each manufacturers public information website.

The Mega Company "A" Ingredients
Large Breed Adult Formula
Chicken, Corn Meal, Ground Whole Grain Sorghum, Ground Whole Grain Barley, Chicken By-Product Meal, Chicken Flavor, Dried Beet Pulp, Dried Egg Product, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Fish Meal, Potassium Chloride, Brewers Dried Yeast, Fish Oil (preserved with mixed Tocopherols, a source of Vitamin E), Salt, Flax Meal, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Choline Chloride, Calcium Carbonate, Fructooligosaccharides(Prebiotics that aid in digestive health), Minerals (Ferrous Sulfate, Zinc Oxide, Manganese Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganous Oxide, Potassium Iodide, Cobalt Carbonate), DL-Methionine, Dried Chicken Cartilage, Vitamins (Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin A Acetate, Calcium Pantothenate, Biotin, Thiamine Mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Niacin, Riboflavin Supplement (source of vitamin B2), Inositol, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Folic Acid), Vitamin E Supplement, Beta-Carotene, Rosemary Extract.


The Small Company "B" Ingredients
Large Breed Adult Holistic Formula
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Whole Ground Brown Rice, Whole Ground Barley, Oatmeal, Tomato Pomace (natural source of Lycopene), Natural Chicken Flavor, Chicken Fat (naturally preserved with Mixed Tocopherols), Whole Potatoes, Peas, Flaxseed(natural source of Omega 3 and 6 Fatty Acids), Whole Carrots, Whole Sweet Potatoes, Blueberries, Cranberries, Barley Grass, Dried Parsley, Garlic, Alfalfa Meal, Dried Kelp, Yucca Schidigera Extract, L-Carnitine, L-Lysine, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, Chondroitin Sulfate, Turmeric, Dried Chicory Root, Oil of Rosemary, Beta Carotene, Vitamin A Supplement, Thiamine Mononitrate (Vitamin B1), Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Niacin (Vitamin B3), d-Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6), Biotin (Vitamin B7), Folic Acid (Vitamin B9), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Calcium Ascorbate (source of Vitamin C), Vitamin D3 Supplement, Vitamin E Supplement, Iron Amino Acid Chelate, Zinc Amino Acid Chelate, Manganese Amino Acid Chelate, Copper Amino Acid Chelate, Choline Chloride, Sodium Selenite, Calcium Iodate, Salt, Caramel, Potassium Chloride, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Bacillus subtilis, Enterococcus faecium(bacteria cultures activated on ingesting the food and help to maintain normal bacteria balance in the lower intestine. They aid in digestion and reduce the occurrence of diarrhea, contributing to colon and rectum health)

Company "A" Guaranteed Analysis
Large Breed Adult Formula
Crude Protein: 23.00 % minimum
Crude Fat: 13.00 % minimum
Crude Fat: 16.00 % maximum
Crude Fiber: 5.00 % maximum
Moisture: 10.00 % maximum
Omega-6: 2.4 %* minimum
Omega-3: 0.3 % minimum
Glucosamine: 375 mg/kg minimum
Chondroitin Sulfate: 35 mg/kg minimum
Company "B" Guaranteed Analysis
Large Breed Adult Holistic Formula
Crude Protein: 26.0% minimum
Crude Fat: 12.0% minimum
Crude Fiber: 5.0% maximum
Moisture: 10.0% maximum
Omega 6: 2.25% minimum
Omega 3: 0.10% mimimum
Glucosamine: 400 mg/kg minimum
Chondroitin Sulfate 300 mg/kg minimum

From a pure ingredient stand point it is very clear to see a remarkable difference between the two large breed adult formulas. Remember, ingredients are listed by weight from highest to lowest in the listing. In my opinion the first 3-5 ingredients are critical in determining how effective they truly are. Also remember, any ingredient called "Meal" is just ground dehydrated product. I will, as I sure my dog will, take Chicken Meal over Corn Meal as the number two ingredient. Corn of any form is just a low grade, difficult to digest, source of carbohydrates. Chicken Meal on the other hand is a huge source of pure protein and is high digestible. Also, Company "B" uses no by-products in their ingredient listing where as Company "A" listed Chicken By-Product as the fourth heaviest ingredient in their formula which left me scratching my own head and started me on my way to rethinking what food I should be feeding. I also liked the fact that Company "B" had a huge level of Chondroitin(300mg/kg) per serving over a slim Company "A" Chondroitin level of only 35mg/kg. The more joint and cartilage support I can supply my dog the better. I know he will absorb as much as he needs and expel the rest.

Lets talk money. I first considered the monthly dollar difference a major concern when making the switch. I am sure the average gun dog owner thinks the same. A 40lb bag from Company "A" costs $51.99(price found at the nearest national pet food retailer). A 30lb bag(largest produced) by Company "B" is priced the same(found at same retailer on 2/17/10). OK, so a ten pound difference might seem like a lot. It did to me. But I tried the switch anyway. Come to find out, my 65lb/3y.o. pointer named Dewey needed to eat less everyday. He was able to digest(process needed nutrients better) more and needed to consume less to feel full. On average and over the course of the six weeks past his food transition phase Dewey went from regularly eating 2.5 cups a day of Company "A" to no more than 2 cups per day of Company "B". A general rule of thumb is a 40lb bag of dry dog foods contains approximately 100 cups. OK, freaks and geeks out there I realize this is NOT an exact science! Pounds and cups are incomparable units of measure and the size or volume of the actual food kibble size might skew this one one or the other. But for the sake of an economic comparison we are fairly accurate. Here is the breakout. Sharpen your pencil and break out a calculator...

40lb. of dry dog food = 100 cups(est.)
30lb. of dry dog food = 75 cups(est.)

If both bags cost $51.99(current retail value at time of posting)...

40lb bag costs $0.52 per cup
30lb bag costs $0.69 per cup

=difference of $0.17 per cup
The nutritional absorption of Company "B" resulted in a decrease in the amount I needed to feed Dewey daily. Please keep in mind this comparision is based on daily maintenance ration size(low work days!). The same comparision varibles held true during high laod work days, i.e. hunting/conditin/training

Daily Serving Comparison2.5 cups daily serving needed of Company "A" 40lb bag = 40 daily servings per bag
2.0 cups daily serving needed of Company "B" 30lb bag = 37.5 daily servings per bag
Cost Comparison Results
End equation results in +$1.73 per bag overall total variance per bag quantity to feed Company "B" holistic formula over Company "A" comparable adult large breed dog food. The bottom line is, I need to feed LESS but spend MORE at time of purchase for LESS quantity but the end result is only a total difference of $1.73 extra per bag of dog food purchased! That's amazing!

Proof always lies within the tangibles. The quality of ingredients found in the overall formula of the food clearly shows that holistic, 100% pure natural dog food are worth their weight in gold. If you care about the health and well being of your favorite four legged friend than feeding a truly natural/holistic based diet is a must.

I did a lot of soul searching and finally realized I had been putting my own ego in front of my dogs overall well being. This is not to say my dog or past dogs were not healthy but I never stopped to ask myself...could they be better? Currently, Dewey maintains the same healthy weight at 65lbs. I am most impressed by his increased recovery time and overall stamina in the field. He was always a high energy dog but seeing his ability to recover quickly after a long, stressful hunt and work equally as hard the following day is very impressive. His coat and fur are consistently shiny and I have stopped needing to give him any vitamin supplements as I had in the past(that alone is a $25 a month saving!)

When hanging around fellow hunters these days the topic of dog food always seems to arise. I let them know I made a drastic change. My dog and I no longer run with the pack. We run further and harder than the rest of them now. Those who have hunted with us nod their heads and quietly agree. But then again, my dog is now a holistic hunter. Peace and love my brother!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

Healthy Gun Dog Treats

Walk into any local pet store today and the sheer number of different dog treats is astounding. Gone are the days of only a few different treats offered by longtime brands that churned out bland, bone shaped biscuits. Today, flashy packaging and colorful displays line the aisles with hundreds of choices for your trusty bird dog to snack on between meals. In this post I will focus on one manufacturers that I recommend and hopefully help narrow down your search. This company makes all of their products right here in the good old U.S. of A! All are made with quality, wholesome ingredients that will not only make your dog wag his tail in delight but also pack nutritious supplements that benefit all highly active sporting breeds.

Zukes, A small Durango, CO company was founded in 1995 and has been consistently producing an assortment of the finest dog treats on the market. According to their website; Unlike other treats that are comprised of unrecognizable 14 letter ingredients, Zuke's is formulated to provide the specific nutrients your dog needs. Our products include the finest meats, premium grains, fruits, vegetables and oils available. With Zuke's treats you'll never find any harsh preservatives like BHA, added animal fat, nasty by–products or artificial colors or flavors. In other words, we don't put anything in our products that we wouldn't eat ourselves. I highly recommend and use all Zukes products but my top picks are their "Z-Fillets" and "Power Bones". Their Z-Fillets will make any dog jump up and go crazy in edible anticipation. Just the fresh smell from opening the bag with have your dog by your side in a millisecond. These treats are 100% pure, premium meat resulting in a high protein snack for added strength, health, and vitality. Their "Power Bones" are exactly what they sound like. According to their website; they are like an energy bar for people but for dogs. I could not agree more! These are the perfect treat to pack in your hunting vest and use to recharge your gun dog on those long treks into the backcountry...or when you realize both of you are 12 miles from where you parked and the walk back now seems even further! Again, please click on the image link to visit their website. Zukes website.

Without doubt there are now hundreds of other great manufacturers making treats in this world. I have focused on only one brand since I believe in only writing about what has worked successfully for my own dogs in the past and present! Next time you are in your local pet store take a little extra time to find a treat that will not only satisfy your dog's craving for the munches, but one that is also a healthy supplement to his or her diet. Your dog will love you even more...and if your lucky, hunt for you a little harder on your next trip to the field.

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

The Season Is Never Over

Another bird hunting season has come and gone. January is now upon us. With all my free time spent in the field the past few months that "honey do" list has grown to epic proportions. I suppose it is time to rotate back into the general population for awhile; or should I? Dewey, my pointer, can't understand why both of us are now hanging around the house staring at each other and not out chasing birds. For gun dog owners like us, it is definitely not the time to shut it down and call it a season. The honey do's can always wait. Our gun dogs can't.

I recommend a vet visit shortly after the regular upland season has ended. Just like the preseason check up, a postseason trip to the vet is extremely important. Remember to take in a fecal sample. There is no telling what type of bad stuff a gun dog was exposed to or possibly ingested out in the fields over the course of a hunting season. Never allow the dogs feces to touch the ground if planning on having it tested. Yes, this is a tough job to do!(no pun intended) Catching an exiting poop in your bagged hand is definitely a challenge. Allowing the feces to touch the ground opens the possibility of contamination from whatever type of other bad stuff might possibly already have been on the spot your dog decided was just right for his job! Have the vet perform a thorough eye, ear, and skin check as well. Let the vet know the dog has been hunting hard the past few months as well as the type of cover and fields he or she has been exposed to. Although it is difficult, find a vet that is familiar with sporting breeds and familiar with the type of health issues that can arise from prolonged hunting activity.

A change in food formula might also be needed. If the dog had been switched to a high protein/high fat food just before and during the season, now is the time to slowly transition back to one with possibly a little less "octane" in it. That is, of course, the owner and dog plan on less activity this time of year.

Although the grip of winter is still tightened down, opportunities to keep your trusty gun dog working are many. Firstly, most game farms and preserves will continue to be in operation until early spring. Although these are not the "real deal" to you, I would bet your dog can't tell the difference! Within this struggling economic environment it is tough for most to part with cash for the chance to put your dog on birds after the season. This is especially difficult when large private shooting clubs are charging an arm and a leg for a few hens and a couple hours trudging their back forty. Even more so if the club charges an annual or membership fee. I suggest doing your research on http://www.gamebirdhunts.com/. This site has the most comprehensive listing of game farms, preserves, and shooting clubs in America. It lists everything from the small mom & pop operations to the ritziest clubs available. If you are like me, my money is best spent on quality birds and good cover. I could care less for the hoopla of fancy clubhouses and private lockers that only seem to increase the cost of the experience and do little to gratify the actual hunt. I spend my money at a local preserve near my home here in southeast Wisconsin. Crawfish River Sportsman's Club is a small operation, doesn't advertise much, uses an old barn as a check in office, and charges a very moderate price per birds released. No annual fee, no monthly dues, leaves out the flashy white collar benefits that hardcore hunting blue collar types could care less about. Pete, the owner, is a down home genuine guy who is more concerned about the quality of his birds and what shape his cover is today. No matter if you are a single hunter or a group, Pete guarantees one of his two separated 300+ acre tracts will be all to yourself or group. After the hunt and back at the barn, Pete will offer you a cold can of Budweiser for only a dollar as you shoot the breeze! Fresh water for my dog(who got his bird fix) and a cold can o' beer for me(who also got his bird fix). Life is always good at Pete's place. The thing I like most about Pete's place is the fact that he always asks how my dog is and how my dog did "out there". That type of genuine concern is most important to me. Like I said, Pete's a quality guy and a true bird hunter. He is a dog man first, preserve owner second. Whatever type of game club or preserve you choose to spend money on the experience allows you work with your dog on birds in a more defined atmosphere. It is a great time to tune up some of those "issues" your dog might have developed during wild hunts where his or her bad habits may have snuck back into the picture at times.

Live pigeons or farm bought pheasants/quail are another off-season option and a very economical one at that. Find a state run public field trial or dog training area to release these birds in. The downside is public opportunities for dog training are few and far between in most states. Your best bet is to kindly ask a local farmer to use one of his fallow fields to train on. The best part is most farmers are happy to have you trap pigeons around their farms. It is doing them a great service and they are usually glad to allow the use of a small parcel in return. If trapping pigeons isn't an option, let the farmer have any of the pheasants you shoot as a kindly gesture in return. It is always best to dress them out before giving them to farmer as a sign of respect and thanks.

Can '09 Memories hold us over until the '10 open season? Nope!

These are just a couple options in the many ways to keep your gun dog healthy and trained up even though the public open season is over. As always, keep them running hard and wanting more. Remember, October 2010 is right around the corner. For gun dogs and their owners; the season is never really over!

Best of luck to each of you out there. -Mark

Cold Dog, New Tricks

If you live in the north country arctic conditions are right outside your window. Some parts of the upper Midwest have been socked in with heavy snow fall for the past three weeks coupled with minus zero temperatures. Those of you back east are now buried under the worst blizzard in the past decade. Ma' Nature has dropped a freezing mess across most northern states but there are still precious days left in the upland hunting season. If you are like me and my dog..."ain't nothin' goin' to stop us now"!

This morning Dewey and I left the house with false confidence into what could have been our toughest hunting conditions ever.

We awoke to darkness with heavy flakes coming down. Another 2-3" had accumulated overnight on top of a frozen crust of over two feet. Dawn broke forth without much notice. Sunshine was nowhere to be seen on this side of the globe. Wind chill danced around zero. Stepping outside a frigid blast hit me hard. It's pressure felt like a razor cut flesh wound across my exposed face. Dewey jumped forth. His inherent Texas blood makes him unafraid. Not cold, nor darkness, nor earthly beast, and he certainly doesn't let the white stuff get in his way of him finding birds. He's got a true Texas swagger but today would be a test for us both. He looked up at me and I looked down at him. He knew there was no turning back...and so did I.

Picture taken of Dewey taken 12/21/09. Hunting hard in cold conditions through proper conditioning and nutrition.

I briefly touched on some cold weather dog tips in my past posts, now lets get a little more serious about taking care of your four legged hunting partner in tough winter conditions.
The general rule of thumb is for every 10 degree drop in outside temperature increase your dog's food rations up about 6%. This is a give or take formula dependant on how hard your dog works outdoors. Time to break out the calculator and metric conversion table again! If you are wondering at what temp to start, take your hometown mean(average) temp found in the farmers almanac and go from there! Also, finding that dog fuel with the proper source of protein and fat to better support is hunt drive and recovery(see Performance Foods post) is highly important. I simply can't say this enough. Your dog's food is the key to it's well being. Buy him/her the best you can afford. Period. Besides food intake there are many other things to consider when hunting in the the bitter cold with a 4 legged steam engine whose only desire is to find the next bird or retrieve the next duck!
Thinking about proper re-hydration in the grasp of old man winter is sometimes critically forgotten! Bitter cold brings dryness to the atmosphere where a dogs breathe gets zapped and moisture is evaporated by zero humidity conditions quickly. With every breathe brings a loss of water to your dog. Much more than even that hot humid day chasing quail for you southern hunters. Getting a hard charging gun dog to drink in the stone cold is usually tough to do. Even though he is not begging for it, it certainly doesn't mean he doesn't need it! To get a dog that won't drink to come to water, grab him gently by the muzzle and spray just a few squirt of water down his throat. I don't mean cold water either but nice warm water from a bottle that has been kept tucked in your vest nearest your own heat source. This is when the training in the off season to accept a water bottle comes in handy! Keep in mind, a working dog will need at minimum 1-2 ounces of water every 20 minutes to stay properly hydrated. Keeping your dog hydrated is not the only thing that should concern you. It is also very helpful to carry some treats in your jacket pocket as well. A dog eating a small ration of treats(make then small, soft, and easily eaten) during a cold hunt will help their body produce internal heat from digestion. Keeping them watered and munching on a treat every 20 minutes or so will help ward of the dreaded early signs of hypothermia. Keep in mind, hypothermia is not only a human condition.

The beginning phases of hypothermia are excessive shaking or totally uncontrollable shivering. If your dog becomes lethargic or slows down his normal hunting "style" get your dog back to a warm truck and home immediately. Towel dry him off and wrap him in blankets or move him nearest the heater. Advanced signs of hypothermia are stumbling or "confused" dogs. If you have reached that stage, shame on you, get him into warmth ASAP and to a vet IMMEDIATELY. There is NO bird in the world worth putting your dog in harms way because he or she can't handle the conditions. Much like in the rest of life, use your best judgement and never push your gun dog further than you think. Here are a few tips to help hydrate your dog and make them ready for a cold hunt or recover quickly after.
-Supply your dog plenty of clean water: always!
-Fill water bowl and add treats as "floaters", this could make him drink more: pre hunt
-Moisten dogs nightly or morning food ration with a little more water than normal: pre hunt
-Use a hydration supplement found in most pet food stores: pre hunt & post hunt
-Take the extra time and try to force hydrate, 2oz. every 20 minutes: during the hunt
Another tip would be to start your dog on an Omega 3 & 6 fatty acid supplement to help moisturize and maintain a think outer coat during the winter months. These supplements can be used year round but especially in the winter. I recommend any of the wonderful wild salmon oil supplements available at your local pet store. These either come in convenient liquid or powder form and can be added into their food. Daily rations of fish oil do wonders for not only your dog's internal health but his coat will become thicker, shine like diamonds, and shedding will most likely decrease. My dog prefers the liquid form as a tasty, yet healthy, topping over his dry food.
Have fun hunting in the snow and be safe, not only for yourself but for your 4-legged hunting partner as well. Because if it wasn't for them, you wouldn't do very much shooting!
Best of luck out there. -Mark

Performance Dog Foods

Gun dogs were bred for generations to hunt a variety of wild game in the harshest of environments. They are canine athletes specialized by genetics to produce results in the field. Yours might be a Blue Tick Coonhound that patrols the night time woods treeing masked bandits. Or maybe you own a versatile Drahthaar that retrieves mallards from a marsh in the morning and then scouts the uplands for pheasants that afternoon. The bottom line is, all sporting breeds need quality food to fuel their inner hunting engine. These days there are many quality foods available from a wide selection of reputable manufacturers to help your dog perform to their optimum level. The gun dog owner needs to know what to look for in the ingredients to best fit his or her dogs needs.

The Guaranteed Analysis: The "GA" is information listed on every bag of food made by every company. The GA shows the minimum levels of crude protein and fat and the maximum levels of fiber and water. The term "crude" might ring the false alarm to some. Rest assured, it does NOT refer to the quality of the nutrient but to the specific method of testing. Below is an example of a GA.

Upon further inspection of this GA we can derive that this dry dog food has 90% dry matter. We find this by taking the amount of moisture(10% in this case) and subtracting from 100%. We can then take the 26% protein and divide that by the 90%. Now we find the protein level to be almost 29% of dry matter. Ok? Here's where it helps to bring a calculator into the feed store...The more moisture the dry food contains the LESS nutritious dry matter there is in the food. This will hit you in your wallet as you will need to buy more, feed more, as well as your dog eat more to derive more nutrients. BEWARE of high moisture % content dry kibble food. This is a case when "more" is not always better!

Protein and Fat are your guns dog's core fuel ingredients. Protein for their supply of amino acids to build and maintain strong muscles, cartilage, ligaments, and tendons. Unused protein is also stored as fat for later use. Fat content for their daily energy supply as well as delivering building blocks for healthy skin and hair. Ok so far? Here is where is gets a little more tricky to properly supply your hunting partner with a quality food. The "digestibility" of protein and fat can vary widely depending on what sources these nutrients come from. Shown below is an Ingredients List.

All dog foods list their ingredients in order of weight. It is by far the best way for you, the knowledgeable consumer, to determine the overall quality of the food you are choosing for your gun dog. Read the entire list carefully. Some manufacturers have a trick of breaking up similar or like ingredients with different jargon or slightly different "but same" throughout the list as weights decrease. If you find yourself repeating the same word found in different ingredients you have now just deciphered the loop hole in listing ingredients by weight! Even though the first ingredient is listed as say chicken, keep on reading down the list. Group all the like ingredients together to figure out what REALLY is the primary ingredient. Now comes the even harder part. How do you determine what ingredients are the most digestible? Why is digestibility important? The easier your dog's internal systems can extract nutrients the better. They eat and absorb as much as possible in a very short window of opportunity. The better the ingredients, the more your dog absorbs before he or she removes it(aka take a poop!). Keep in mind a dog's digestive tract is not like a humans. 4-8 hours and they are processing everything. Humans on the other hand process complete from 8 hours to upwards of 4 days! There is not much time in a dog life for nutrient absorption so what they eat best be great! Until the pet food industry begins to list digestibility of ingredients, the only way is to "guesstimate" in the order in which they they appear and then make a very unscientific calculation. If the first ingredient is chicken, lamb, venison, duck, or any other whole or "meal" (meal is dehydrated protein meat source and an excellent source of highly concentrated and highly digestable protein), these are the heaviest by ingredient weight as well as the best sources of highly digestibility, quality protein. By-product or other meat based by-products are average. Remember to add up like sources on the ingredients list both positively and negatively. Also keep in mind carbohydrate sources and the quality/digestibility of them as well. For example a higher amount of brewer's rice(small fragments of rice kernels that have been separated from large kernels of milled rice) are a better source of carbo's than ground corn. Carbo's are also a secondary source of energy so finding a food with quality starches, sugars, and fiber sources not only help your energy level for your dog but also aid in digestion and intestinal fortitude.

The manufacturer has also included Feeding Instructions on every bag. I highly suggest you only use these as rough guidelines. Every dog is different and possess a different metabolism, activity level, and working environmental(such as temperature). Also take into account the dog's breed, age, and special needs. Use your common sense when it comes to following these feeding guidelines. Adjust as needed or you may end up with a very obese or very undernourished dog. Although activity level is the primary measure for concern, temperature can play a major role in the amount of energy your dog consumes during an average hunt. The rule of thumb is for every 10 degree drop in temperature(below normal average temp) figure an average 6% increase in caloric intake your dog needs to keep the fire in his engine hot and running hard. You must stoke the fire hotter during those cold December hunts when the afternoon wind chill drops off and snow flurries fill the air.

These days buzz words and marketing hoopla abound in the dog food industry. Any manufacturer that claims their product is "complete", "balanced", "100% nutritious", must resort to proving this statement on their bags. Look for the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) stamp to constitute this. Also, many dog food manufacturers claim and label bags as "premium" or "super premium". I just saw two competing brands advertising with one saying "super premium" and the other for "ultra premium". The truth be know, products labeled as premium, gourmet, super this, or ultra that, are not required to contain any different or higher quality ingredients , nor are they held to any higher standards than any other dog food brand. Strange? Yes and I agree. Beware of marketing ploys as they run rampant in the dog food business! Look at the stuff inside. That's what really counts when you and your dog need that extra mojo to push up that canyon wall for chukars or trudge that last sorghum break for ringnecks. Don't get caught up in the flashy packaging and multimillion dollar ad campaigns! It won't help your dog out in the backcountry. As the master of a canine athlete you owe it to your dog(s) to supply them with premium food. Most performance dog foods on the market today range from 28% protein/18% fat mix to a 30%/20% mix. Some foods however separate themselves from the pack by using the highest quality ingredients possible. Check them out and study them carefully!

A couple key ingredients that might help your gun dog recover quicker as well as help in the fight against aching joints and soreness is Chondriotin and Glucosumine. Many of the finer food brands add these nutrients into their foods but they are also available as supplements in either tablet or liquid form. Next time you are into see your Vet ask about how much of these your dog should receive as part of his daily allowance. They are a huge help for older dogs and those who run hard day in and day out for quicker recovery during the season.

The next time you are at the feed store take the time to investigate further the many great foods that are available to better help your faithful hunting companion fit and ready for the next hunt.

Best of luck out there, -Mark